Exploring the mystique of Laos in South East Asia,the World's most bombed country /capita.

div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">

Festive decor at Chhatrapatti Shivaji airport.

As a student of history and a passion for travel having travelled across 80 country's  decided to visit the "Land of a million elephants",Laos. Bizarrely and sadly this title of Laos seems totally out of place in 2020 as the  elephant population is negligible in this  tiny landlocked country. The modern tragic distinction of Laos is that of being the  World's most bombed country/capita  in history.Between 1964 to 1973 the U.S.A dropped 270 million  plane load of bombs over Laos in a time frame  equivalent to  8 minutes in a 24 hrs/ day for  9 years .Unbelievable but true thus making Laos the most bombed country  in history in  comparison to the size of its population.Had travelled through entire South East Asia and only Laos was the missing link to complete my travels across South East Asia.Laos is  bordered by China and Myanmar(Burma) in the North West and Vietnam on its Eastern border.Cambodia is on its South east border while Thailand on its  West and South west border thus making Laos the only landlocked country in entire South East Asia.
On Wednesday(6/11/2019) booked my online ticket return air  ticket costing Rs 31,496 only on "Thai Airways" through travel portal  "www.makemytrip.com".
Tuesday(31/12/2019) Departure Mumbai :- 

"Duty Free" shopping at Chhatrapati Shivaji airport.

                      As it was the year end realized there might be traffic congestion and my hunch proved right.Left my house in Prabhadevi at 1830 hrs and the taxi driver advised me to take the "Worli-Bandra Sea link" road to avoid traffic congestion and the "Miser" wiser for the same agreed rather than disagreed. 2-Wheeler vehicles  are not allowed over the "Worli-Bandra Sealink" be it a 1 Crore superbike or the cheapest mobike  otherwise i would have regularly driven down this beautiful bridge that gives the best image of Mumbai as the city  of residence of the wealthiest Asian.With great difficulty reached "Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal-2"  at 1945 hrs with the taxi fare amounting to a colossal Rs 850 which included Rs 70 for the bridge toll .

 

Travel across Laos

                                                                                     I thought i was early having forgotten that the reporting time for check-in had now been extended to 4 hours due to security reasons. The check-in was quick but the immigration clearance had a serpentine queue and to my horror when my turn arrived the "Immigration Officer" was unaware of the existence of Laos on the immigration computer site and quizzed me like a detective. Finally  with the help of his fellow colleagues he educated his own geographical ignorance and acknowledged the fact that a country called Laos does exist ! For a few minutes i was dumbfounded hoping that i was not mistaken for a billionaire Industrialist trying to flee the Country a la Vijay.Mallya or Nirav.Modi.We leave in a strange World and anything goes on mistaken identity.Finally heaved a sigh of relief when the officer stamped my passport and gave me the green signal for the flight by "Thai  Airways TG- 318 " to Bangkok. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminal-2 is one of the World's best airports and felt of being in a festive environment at the airports duty free shops decked in Christmas and New year festive gear.

View  while landing at Luang Prabang airport.

                                                                                                      Took a few photographs and made my way to "Gate 74".Boarding was late and the plane was houseful with passengers. Take-off was at 23 40 hrs and at midnight at a altitude of 35,000 ft  was surprised at the drabness of welcoming 2020 on this "Thai  Airways" plane.We co-passengers seated next to each other didn't greet each other as also the same with other passengers making the night seem like another routine flight .Agreed the airlines staff cannot involve themselves in any celebrations unlike we seafarer's sailing on the high seas but at least the interior of the plane should have been decorated  akin to the airport duty free zone.Yours truly had finally seen it all and done it all and next time even by mistake i will never travel by air on a New years eve celebration.

Landing in Luang Prabang on New Year -2020.Plush Kingkitsarath road with its row of restaurants.

UNESCO Luang Prabang has no tall concrete building's.

                                                                              Wednesday(1/1/2020) HAPPY NEW YEAR  on "Thai Airways TG -318 and arrival Luang Prabang :-                                   Saw the "Lion King" on the rickety malfunctioning T.V and the dinner was pathetic for the occasion except for the peg of whisky.Brought back memories of "Grand New Year/Religious Parties" up-to the end of the 20th century on sailing ships during my employment on various different ships. During my sailing era we worked like "Sea-dogs"in the "Engine-Room"  and partied like "Billionaires" which  could make a "5-Star" hotel seem pedestrian in comparison to a average cargo ship's "BADA KHANA(BIG FOOD)" celebrations.Now in the 2020 just memoirs of a bygone era that will never ever return to 21st century shipping. The "TITANIC" built in 1911 and the largest cruise ship of it's era would seem like a average cruise ship in 2020 .Yes, change is permanent. Arrival at Bangkok airport was punctual according to schedule and in comparison to Chhatrapati Shivaji airport of Mumbai seems Bangkok airport just considered the year end festivities a normal working day as did the "Thai Airways" plane.

On NEW YEAR 2020 in Luang Prabang 

                    I was totally disappointed and  travel across various cultures does educate.The staff at Bangkok airport were very helpful and guided me to the transit lounge gate.WiFi was excellent and whiled away my lonely New Year eve night at the airport browsing through the Internet.Finally at 0845 hrs our "Thai Smile TG 2576 " plane took off for Luang Prabang and akin to the New Year 2020 this was a brand new  Jumbo plane which compensated for the shoddy "New Year Eve" travel from Mumbai to Bangkok by the "Thai Airways TG-318" plane.The plane was half full and the three seats next to me were empty  and hence King size travel to Luang Prabang. Excellent breakfast was served by the staff and on approaching Luang Prabang the "Bird's Eye View" from the plane was beautiful and sapped the tiredness of a drab  sleepless night from my body network.On touching down in  Laos , Country N0 81 on my collection of country's visited  immediately noticed the cleanliness of  Luang Prabang airport.Visa charges was U.S $ 41 which was definitely expensive.After changing U.S $'s into Lao Kip currency felt like a billionaire walking around with lakhs of Kip in my pocket .1 US $ = 8,885 Kip or Indian Rs 100 = 12,439 Kip !Taxi's are expensive and a shared taxi with three other Japanese tourists cost me 50,000 Kip.Yes, fellow traveler's were not wrong in saying that Laos is the costliest country among the South East Asian country's.

Over 100 years old "3 Nagas" heritage building.

                                                                                                                                       It was not a very long drive from airport to "Aham Hostel and Cafe" and hence felt the taxi fare a bit exorbitant and realized  my home city of Mumbai as one of the cheapest city's in the World barring accommodation prices.Travel Educates and to think that a Immigration officer employed in the Immigration department in Mumbai was ignorant of the Country's existence made me realize that Laos was never on the Indian tourist map.It's always Bangkok , Cambodia or Vietnam in South East Asia but never Laos among the common average Indian tourists.On arrival at "Aham Hostel" the front desk hostel employee Mr Lar. Saiyageth was extremely helpful in guiding me across my home away from home "Aham Hostel" .Was allotted "Room A" on the first floor of the hostel having 6 double sleeper beds.One of the most important traditional customs in Laos is the removal of footwear before entering any premises let alone sacred Buddhist temple. Very similar to Hindu culture back home in India.

Beautiful country style housing in Luang Prabang.

                  Ahoy! For braggers rights even among my hardcore fellow shipping mates i might be within the top 3 of having stayed in the most number of hostel's, hotel's and guesthouses in India and across the Globe. Some people have the hobby of accumulating expensive cars, bikes,cycles ,properties or just money in the bank  while my passion is counting Country's visited across the Globe.Not a lonely life travelling "SOLO" where at times total strangers become acquaintances. What's life and living without a little bit of travel.One of my room-mates was a young Kenyan athlete from Nairobi named Benjamin  who makes a living running at races as most Kenyans do.

"Wat Xieng Thong" Buddhist temple.

                                   Seeing my beard he immediately referred to my beard's  resemblance to  Kenya's first President Mr Jommo.Kenyatta, a real compliment  and i told him that as a child i personally saw President Jommo.Kenyatta in Mombasa. He realized our age gap and to me  he resembled  the painfully thin underdog "Boxer" who creates a boxing upset in  the unforgettable Sidney.Poitier  and  Bill Cosby comedy film of  1975 titled "Lets do it again".One of my all time favourite comedies and some  movies are unforgettable. I told  him about  the "Mumbai Marathon" but seems akin to the "Boxer" he was not on par with that high  level of competition. Internet WiFi of "Aham Guesthouse" was excellent, much better than my "Reliance Jio" back home in Mumbai.Was Laos one of the World's poorest country's decades ago ? In 1987 i used to travel by taxi in Singapore on my Indian Marine Engineer employment  wages after ship's duty hours and occasionally  party in the best of hotels in downtown Singapore(Orchard Road)  which in 2019 would seem unbelievable with Singapore being the world's costliest Country. Ahoy ! Country's living standards change for the positive or negative over the decades as is the same with us humans as we accumulate age with every passing year .There was a string of jewelry shops  and a landmark supermarket named  "D & T Supermarket"  on the road facing  "Aham Guesthouse".

A local family celebrating "New Year -2020".

                                                                                                                   Later in the afternoon strolled in the vicinity and visited "D & T supermarket" where the prices seemed exorbitant .Lunch was a hamburger with the trademark drink of Laos,"Beerlao" .Relaxation during my travels is in the form of sitting on the table with the laptop.Later in the evening walked towards "Wat Xieng Thong" temple and came across the Nam Khan river  as also the start of the  328 steps leading to the summit of Mt Phousi .I was seeing a lot of Luang Prabang and marveled at the classic French styled single or two strorey bungalow style houses with sloping tiled styled roofs. It was a nice long walk along the narrow clean village style roads towards Wat Xieng Thong temple. Wat Xieng Thong   means  "Temple of the Golden City" in Lao language and  is the largest Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang . Since i was attired in shorts did not enter the precincts of the temple .Wat or Vat means Buddhist temple and  Wat Xieng Thong was built between 1559-1560 under the rule of King Setthathirath and was under patronage of the Royal Family.Entrance fee to the Wat is 20,000 Kip.

Tum Mak Hong(Papaya Salad) preparation..

                                                                                                                Walking further down the road which resembled a village came across loud music and on approaching the source was surprised to see a group of revelers enjoying the "New Year" by singing and dancing to karaoke music. They invited me and offered me a glass of Beerlao  while they were totally immersed in their booze cum singing party. Strangely in a total foreign country and among total strangers i finally  felt it was New year .Life is strange. After a while thanked them for accepting my presence and made my way back towards "Aham hostel". Walked  towards the supermarket  and decided to taste the "Tum Mak Hong(Papaya Salad)"  in the local street shop situated in a by-lane near the supermarket. All travel writers to this country have classified this local street side food as a must eat dish. The cost was 10,000 Kip but honestly i found it too spicy for my liking and taste buds. Luang Prabang in comparison to Indian city's resembles a village with sparse population and absolutely clean country style living.A young group of French tourists arrived at the hostel and also realized that i was the only Sub-continent tourist in the vicinity let alone the hostel with  December/ January  being  peak tourist season in Laos.

"NIGHT MARKET" ground with food stalls.

                                                                                                                             Later in the night decided to visit the famed "Night Market" which was quite a long  walk from the hostel.The sight at the "Night Market" reminded me of Vietnam with street hawkers selling various types of exotic Laotian street food.There was a large ground having food stalls and a centre stage as also a large decorated Christmas tree .This locale  was the main city centre of Luang Prabang.Seems there was a big New Years eve party yesterday  with "Live Music" on this very ground.Next to the ground the entire narrow street was lined with pavement street sellers selling various different products ranging from clothes to handicrafts.

Footpath hawkers at "NIGHT MARKET" 

                                                  Today was my first exploration day of Luang Prabang and had seen important landmarks within half a day of casual brisk walking .Tasted grilled pork barbecue at the night market costing 5000 Kip/stick which was excellent and decided that besides exploring the city had to taste the famed Laotian street cuisine. Ahoy !Walked back the distance towards the hostel overshooting my location and discovering another locale of this tiny city but finally retracing my trail back to "Aham Hostel".My travel research scared me of the "Dengue Menace" of Laos and thankfully "Aham Hostel" rooms had no mosquitoes as it was air-conditioned at night .Had a excellent nights sleep having not slept for 24 long hours during my 2019-2020 air travel from Mumbai to Luang Prabang. Ahoy !

Kuangsi Waterfalls:- A unforgettable swim in one of the World's natural swimming pools.

   

Bear rescue centre at Kuang si Falls.

                                                                           Thursday(2/2/2020 Luang Prabang :-Woke up at 0515 hrs and immediately got to doing my toilet routines while almost the entire two storey hostel building was asleep.Breakfast was at 0730hrs and was a delicious  toast/omelette eaten along with no-limit amount of coffee.The hostel provides excellent "Free Breakfast /Free Coffee" and over breakfast struck a conversation with a young lady from Madrid.On all my solo travels i have never ever felt lonely and over the years met a lot of interesting hostelites whose insights educated me on various aspects of life,lifestyle and living. Ms Julia was a journalist by profession who had lived for 6 long years in Colombia and now on a solo vacation of touring South East Asia.

A view of the Tiered system Kuang Si Waterfalls

                                                   After breakfast it was a anxious wait for the group tour van to "Kuang Si Waterfall"which arrived at the hostel at 0900 hrs and after picking me up began its onward journey ."Kuang Si Waterfall" is approximately 30 Kms from Luang Prabang city  and on the way stopped at two other hostels to collect tourists with the mini-van ultimately packed to capacity with 16 tourists. The cost of the return fare transport by this luxury van was 40,000 Kip/ person with another 20,000 Kip /person as entrance fee to "Kuang Si Waterfall" park.My ticket reservation was booked the previous day by the other shift manager Mr Seng Por Xiong.
 

Bridge across Kuang Si Waterfalls streams.

                                                       The long drive was excellent and observed that all the houses in Luang Prabang were not higher than two storeys with uniformly slanted roofs , a UNESCO heritage City. On the way driving up the hills came across the "Elephant Conservation centre" of Luang Prabang reminding tourists of the fact that Laos was once known as the "Land of a million elephants". Finally after a little over a hours drive reached the main gate of Kuang Si waterfall . Akin to any group tour we were allotted a time limit and had to report back to the tourist van at 1230 hrs.There was a large tourist crowd and on entering the park it was a gradual ascent up a hill where i first came across the "Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue centre", a retirement for Moon bears rescued from the horrible trade of "Bear Bile Extraction".     

Out of the World swimming in a natural pool of nature

                                                                                                                                 There were placards and posters educating the tourists on the horrors of bear bile extraction and the efforts by this conservation centre to preserve the bear population in the wild.From the bear conservation centre it was a short uphill walk to the beautiful sight of Kuang Si waterfall. Kuang Si Waterfalls is a 3 tier waterfall that begins in  shallow pools atop the hill-side. Had a dip in the natural swimming pool of the waterfalls and it was a out of the World experience and  akin to a artificial swimming pool this enclosed tier of the waterfall had a stepped down deep side near the mouth of the gushing waterfall.

 view of Kuang Si Waterfalls from its source in mountain.

                                     There were warning signposts advising tourists not to venture into the water if non-swimmers. Akin to a swimming pool there was also a change-room for tourists and although a daily 2 Kms + swimmer in my home city of Mumbai this few minutes of swimming and wading in Kuang si Waterfall pool was a experience of a different kind.After swimming finally got dressed and walked uphill just admiring Kuang Si Falls as it flowed down the mountainside through various tiers akin to a terraced mountainside.After satisfying my sightseeing of Kuang Si Falls walked back towards the entrance gate and passing alongside the bear conservation centre decided to experience first hand how it felt to be a caged bear .

Tree branch as a "JUMP/DIVE" board in Kuang Si.

                                                                                                        A actual replica of a bear cage was kept at the centre in which the bears were confined for almost ten years of their lifespan  for "Bile extraction".Entered the cage and really felt sad as to how some of us  humans cruelly exploit animal species without a thought of their welfare in captivity.After exiting the gate began searching for my van and got worried as van "N0 5691" was totally missing from the packed parking lot consisting of tourist vans and tourist taxi's. Inquired with other van drivers and was told that our van would return at 1230 hrs with a load of tourists.There were numerous street restaurants selling barbecued food and decided to taste something unique to Laos street cuisine.       

Entered the "BEAR CAGE" to feel it's plight in the "Bear Bile Farms".

                                                                                Tasted barbecued internal intestines of pork which was excellent and a littler bitter in taste. Came across a German tourist sporting one of the most unique beards and requested him for a photograph. Finally at 1245 hrs our van did arrive and heaved a sigh of relief having thought i had been left behind by the tour group.On arriving at the hostel got busy on the internet which also compensated for physical rest .Later in the evening changed into formal long trousers and decided to visit some of the religious Buddhist temples.

Village outside Kuang Si Falls  Park Entrance

                           Walked towards the "Night Market" which during the day was unrecognizable with the absence of footpath shops and eatable restaurants as also the night festival decor lights and Christmas tree.Inquired for directions to the National museum and on the way entered "Watmaysouvanhnaphoumaran Monastery(Wat Mai)" monastery,Entrance to the temple was 10,000 Kip.The  Wat Mai founded in 1780 by King Anurat of the Luang Prabang kingdom is the largest and most richly decorated Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang .A Emerald Buddha statue sits inside the red gold interior of the temple.From the Temple walked further down the road and came across the "National Museum".

"Watmaysouvanhnaphoumaran (Wat Mai)" monastery,

                                                                                                                                             The Royal Palace in Luang Prabang was built in 1904 during the French Colonial era for King Sisavang Vong and his family.After the death of King Sisavang Vong  , the crown Prince Savang Vatthana and his family were the last occupants of this palace. In 1975 the Monarchy was overthrown and the Communists took over political power sending the Royal family to "Re-education Camps".This palace was then converted into a National  museum.There is a large imposing statue of King Sisawang Vong on the museum ground.  The Haw Pha Bang Buddha temple situated opposite King Sisawang Vong statue inside the "National Museum" complex is a magnificent edifice as are all Buddha temples in Luang Prabang Entrance to the main museum was closed but did manage to view the collection of "Royal Cars" of the former Royal family.

"National Museum" of Luang Prabang.

                                                                                                                   All the Royal cars were American made "Lincoln Continental cars"  except for a single French Citroen car. There were also photographs of the different chauffeur's who drove the cars for members of the Royal family.From the museum walked down towards the banks of the Mekong river and inquired about boat tours to Pak Ou caves .Came across a Indian restaurant owned and managed by Indians  and for the first time spoke in Hindi in Laos.The owner of the restaurant guided me to the tour operator situated next to his restaurant .After noting the details of the tour made my long way back towards "Aham hostel" akin to a local with the return route being different. 

UNESCO Heritage Town Luang Prabang houses.

                                                                                                        Walked across the road from the Mekong River bank road side   to the Nam Khan river bank road side passing alongside Phousi hill.The main Luang Prabang city centre is small with just 4 main intersecting roads and hence with two day's of exploration i walked without directions akin to a local.Ahoy !Finally reached "Aham Hostel" and took some rest on the laptop updating my travelogue.My formula for maximum utilization  of time is that when the physical body rests the mind gets into physical mode.In the night walked to the "Night Market" and purchased barbecue pork along with the standard Parisian  long  bread. Walked back to the hostel and purchased the trademark  "BeerLao" from the supermarket and had a peaceful dinner in the hostel open-air lounge watching pedestrians walk past me akin to a traditional footpath cafe .

Inside "PAK OU (Lower) CAVE" which has over 4000 different Buddha statues .

Cruising on Mekong river to Pak Ou Caves.

Friday(3/2/2020) Luang Prabang :-  Had a bad night's  sleep the reasons unknown but not uncommon as insomnia is a part of my lifestyle and living.At 0530 hrs had a bathe and completed my toilet routine.Got dressed and was at the breakfast table for a early breakfast as i had to be at the Mekong Jetty pier at 0800 hrs to board the "Group Ferry" to Pak Ou caves.Met Ms Julia who was also leaving for another destination in Laos As usual we had a talk and as a  history student  she advised  me to visit the tomb of Henri. Mouhot, the French naturalist and explorer  remembered for popularizing the Angkor Vat to the Western audience .

Crossing the underconstruction railway bridge.

                                                       He was not the first Westerner to have visited the Angkor Vat ruins but the first person to write about the Angkor Vat ruins .Thanks to his writings in  which he compared the Angkor Vat  to the pyramids of Egypt  that  the French Government took a interest in  studying and preserving the Angkor Vat ruins.In the 21st century the Angkor Vat is one of the World's most popular tourist sites .A taxi-scooter arrived at the hostel to collect Julia while i hurriedly gulped my breakfast and made my exit from the hostel.Walked down the road alongside  the Nam Khan river embankment past Mount Phousi and took the uphill road towards the Mekong River embankment.

Approaching "WHISKY VILLAGE" on Mekong river.

     On arrival at the booking counter jetty was happy to see a crowd of tourists and in the crowd noticed a tourist from the sub-continent.At last was i going to meet the first Indian tourist in Laos ? After purchasing the ticket costing 65,000 Kip introduced myself to the gentleman who turned out to be a Canadian National of Sri Lankan origin.At 0830 hrs we boarded the long steel canoe boats with 6 tourists to a boat and finally at 0840 hrs  set sail towards Pak Ou caves .The journey was 30 Kms by road  and almost the same by boat.Total strangers became acquaintances as happens on all "Solo Travels" and during the river cruise got to know Sri Lankan origin Canadian Mr R.Bhageerathan (Bagi) better and was surprised to know he was working as a investment banker for a bank in Canada. 

Locally brewed liquor of "WHISKY VILLAGE"

                     Rest of the tourists were Caucasians travelling as couples or in a family  and it was a pleasant very slow journey along the mighty Mekong river towards Pak Ou caves.Came across the new railway bridge being constructed across the Mekong river by the Chinese which would create a rail corridor in land-locked Laos. The railway system of travel is totally absent in Laos.Also understood the construction of a heavy-duty rail bridge across a river with a parallel crane rail track built partially across the river to enable heavy duty cranes for building this bridge.After about one and a half hour we reached Ban Xanghai village popularly known as "Whisky Village" among tourists.Our long snake boat berthed alongside the village embankment and it was a steep walk up a flight of stairs to the "Whisky Village". 

Snake & Centipede liquor on sale.

      The Whisky distilling shop was situated at the main entrance to the village and we were greeted by the sight of different liquor bottles placed on a table. The local man in charge of the shop showed us the different bottles which included reptiles like snakes, lizards, scorpions and centipedes bottled in alcoholic liquor. Nothing new to me as i had seen this same reptile liquor in a more fashionable  trade mark presentation during my visit to Vietnam where "COBRA WINE" is a expensive liquor.As a taster i was given 3 different types of bottled liquor and one of the shots tasted like wine.Purchased a rice whisky bottle costing 30,000 Kip as a courtesy as well as souvenir. From the "Whisky Village" shop walked into the main village and came across a lady spinning silk and cotton garments on a hand-loom machine.Typical exhibition and display for tourists.There was a beautiful Buddhist Monastery in the tiny village and after visiting the same made our way back to the boat.We finally reached Pak Ou cave jetty which had a flotilla of tourist snake boats parked in serial order. The rivers Nam Ou and Mekong meet at Tham Ting also called Pak Ou caves.

Ban Xanghai(Whisky Village)" Buddhist temple.

    There are two different caves situated inside the small hill with  the hill being  called Tham Ting by locals.We alighted the boat and after paying the entry fee ticket of 20,000 Kip   walked  a series of steps up the hill to the "LOWER PAK OU CAVE".The caves got its name due to its close proximity to Pak Ou village and this "Lower Cave" was the most popular of the 2 caves having over 4000 Buddha statues of different sizes inside the cave.Since the introduction of Buddhism in this region locals have been arriving to this cave and depositing Buddha statues and hence over the years this vast collection.

Flotilla of Tourist boats at PAK OU Cave jetty.

               From this cave through a large opening facing the Mekong river  is a beautiful view  of the stretch of river further up where the Mekong river  is joined by the Nam Ou river. There is a distinct difference in the colour of water of the Mekong and the Nam Ou river where the two meet at Tham Ting. The Cave was packed with tourists and after viewing the cave and producing a video made my way to the "UPPER CAVE" situated near the summit of this small hill.It was a long torturous uphill walk along the broad hill stairs and realized i was doing Tapasya(Penance in Hindi) by accomplishing  this strenuous uphill walk of 100 stairs..Finally reached the beautiful ornate metal gate of the "Upper Cave" heaving a sigh of relief at having made it to the top.Entering the "Upper Cave" noticed that it was pitch dark inside and thanks to my torch got to view a few of the Buddha statues inside this cave.Traditionally in the past during the "Lao New Year"  which is celebrated from 13/14 April to 15/16 April the Royal family accompanied by monks would visit this cave to pour water over a sacred Buddha statue inside this cave as part of the "Pi Mi( Lao New Year)" celebrations.

Inside PAK OU (Lower Cave).Buddha statues

           After a brief view of this dark cave made my way back to the boat jetty.During the return boat journey got to know Mr R.Bhageerathan (Bagi) better as also the lifestyle in Canada.Listening to his talks on "PORTFOLIO MANAGEMENT" realized we both were on the same frequency and while he was handling "High Net Individual Portfolio's( US $ 1 Million ++)  i was handling my own portfolio successfully .Ahoy ! At 1345 hrs we finally arrived at Luang Prabang boat jetty and i made my way towards the hostel.Lunch was excellent "Rice/beef " at the take-away next to the supermarket.Trekking to the "Upper Pak Ou" caves had definitely sapped my energy and the discovery travel itinerary of Laos  was still young and hence had some rest on the lap top.

Entrance gate to "UPPER PAK OU  CAVE".

                                                                             In the evening walked to "Night Market" which was bustling with tourist s and the "Night market road stalls". Walked the entire length of the road beginning from the "Festival Ground" right up to "Watmaysouvanhnaphoumaran Monastery(Wat Mai)" where the night market stalls came to a end. Couldn't believe that this same road in the morning was a main artery for the road traffic of Luang Prabang. The entire street was beautifully decorated in the festive atmosphere and realized that besides Buddhist monastery's Luang Prabang had the largest number of hostel's, hotels and restaurants catering to the tourist Industry.Decided to taste the exotic street food and picked up a packet of "Buffalo Skin" costing 5000 Kip which tasted like fish chips.
 

Partial Internal view of "Upper Pak Ou Cave".

                                                                               .Hope i am invited for a annual  dinner to "EXPLORER'S CLUB" sometime during my lifetime.Next strolling through the "Night Street Market" suddenly came across a young lady selling aluminium jewelry and memento's made from shells of bombs dropped onto Laos during the "SECRET WAR(VIETNAM WAR)".Throughout my World travels always made it a point to purchase some memento of the city or country visited having done away with the same in recent travels  as my house lacked space for additional memorabilia, besides, maintenance and dusting of artifacts/curio's  was another major problem.

Beautiful Sisavangvong street  at night.

                                                      .Purchased a aluminium ring for my "Small finger" and even if this lady was selling fake recycled "American Bomb shells" at least this ring would remind me of my visit to the World's most bombed country/capita. That's the tragedy of war which we love watching on the "BIG SCREEN" in movie format in the comfort of our homes or a movie theater  although the ground reality is very different.After purchasing my only memento beside's the "Whisky bottle" from "Whisky village" made my way to  the main "Night Market Square" and purchased a small grilled tilapia fish costing 10,000 Kips.

Dinner at "Aham Backpacker"  street side lounge.

                                Didn't  regret my decision and  thankful for having  purchased the same as i normally avoid fresh water fish.The Tilapia fish stuffed with local herbs was grilled on coal on a bamboo stick and tasted as fresh as being just fished from the Mekong or Nam Khan river.The herbs neutralized the fishy odour also giving the fish a unique taste. Ahoy ! One of the best grilled Tilapia fish i had eaten in a long time since last  visiting Lake Victoria in  Entebbe in Uganda .Wound up the day with a ice-cream from the supermarket store which was atrociously expensive at 17,000 Kip. I could have eaten 2 fried tilapia  fish at the cost of this 5-star priced ice-cream stick.Realized that certain food products especially from malls were atrociously expensive in Laos. Travel educates.Had a insomniac nights sleep as usual .

On the summit of Mt Phousi in Luang Prabang. A walk of 328 steps from the foot of this small hill. A classic "BIRD'S EYE VIEW" of entire LUANG  PRABANG city on this bright sunny Saturday afternoon.

Luang Prabang Post Office :- Main Town centre.

Saturday(4/1/2020) Luang Prabang :- As usual was the first to shower and get dressed and at 0600 hrs was out in the hostel open-air pavement lobby busy updating on my laptop.At approximately 0640 hrs a line of young Buddhist child monks passed  by alongside the hostel road on their way to the monastery.Met the hostel manager and got my ticket to Vang Vieng  booked for the 0900 hrs bus departure at a cost of 90,000 Kip.After breakfast at 0815 hrs made my way out of the hostel for the day's city exploration.Walked to the main city centre which has the post office building as well as the main city entertainment  square.Inquired for directions to "OCK POP TOK SILK ROAD CAFE " and after much bargaining a tuktuk driver agreed to take me to the place for a charge of 10,000 Kip.

"Silk Weaving" at OCK POP TOK  Centre.

                           It was a short 2.5 Kms drive and noticed the difference in road maintenance once past the main tourist centre of Luang Prabang. Dusty  and narrow road.Finally arrived at the entrance gate of "OCK POP TOK" and made my way towards the main reception counter of "OCP POP TOK Living Craft Centre" .Visitors are given a "FREE TOUR" of the silk and textile manufacturing process of the centre which also conducts classes for women in  the spinning and manufacturing of silk cloth.My guide Mr Steven took me through the large palatial estate beginning from the "Silk Worm Larvae", cocoons section to the section which employs women for manufacturing silk cloth.

Wat Hosian Voravihane in Luang Prabang Town

                                   This locale is situated on the banks of the Mekong river and besides the 'Silk Manufacturing section" also has a plush cafe called the "OCK POP TOK Silk Road Cafe". A hotel also exists in the estate with the minimum rentals being U.S $ 65/day for a single room and Us $ 100 +/Day for a independent cottage style house facing the Mekong river.If you intend splurging at a good scenic locale in Luang Prabang then "OCK POP TOK" is the place to live in.From the classic and beautiful estate decided to walk back to my hostel as i regularly swim this distance in Mumbai let alone walk the talk ! A bright sunny day with excellent cool pleasant weather .

Plush restaurants on Nam Khan  river embankment 

                                                       On the way came across a lady selling tamarind  and tasted the same which was sweet and delicious.Further down the road came across a street side eatery and experimented with the cuisine of "Buffalo blood soup" costing only 5000 Kip.One of the main events hosted by the elite "EXPLORER'S CLUB"founded in 1904 in New York is its 'Annual Dinner"where the invitee's consisting of Scientists and explorer's have to eat anything not normally palatable as common food by 99% of the human population which includes insects, etc . The reason being that the early explorer's didn't have the luxury of cuisine gourmet as we do today but had to survive on anything edible to stay alive in dense jungles or mountains or space.

Walk of 328 steps to Mt Phousi

                                                                                             Tasted like medicine and seems i am closer to entering the privileged "Annual Dinner"of "World Explorers Club" although yet to explore something unexplored or scientifically new to the human race.Came across a restaurant having cages hung across the length of its premises with only bulbul species of birds confined in the cages. Language was a hurdle but i presume these birds were either used for "Bird Fights" or "Bird singing contests" as is common in Hong Kong.Finally reached the hostel which was  packed with tourists checking in and out of the hostel ,all from First World country's of  France,Japan,Taiwan,Korea,Israel ,Australia and America  except Benjamin from Kenya and yours truly from India..Benjamin the oldest hostel resident seemed totally at home away from Nairobi as also a lone White  American Jeremiah from California who unlike  me was a professional blogger and Internet gamer.Jeremiah from California was a Internet wizard  who also spoke Lao language and totally at home in Laos  My Intuition  was right and when i asked him if he  was a C.I.A operative and  he didn't  surprise me by saying that he did receive a offer to join the "Company( C.I.A)" but politely refused the same. Ahoy !.

Inside "Wat Chomsi" on peak of Mt Phousi.

                                     Took a photograph with Benjamin and Jeremiah and got busy resting on my lap top as a steep 328 steps ascent to Mt Phousi was on my afternoon exploration agenda.
At 1315 hrs stepped out of the hostel and walked down the plush Kingkitsarath  road  towards Mt Phousi hill situated on the Nam Khan river embankment At 1330 hrs began my ascent of the 328 steps of  the 150 mt( 490 Ft) high Mt Phousi   and was amazed at my own unbelievable energy and enthusiasm .The steps incline  was  not high between each successive steps and found the ascent very normal.Entrance fee was 20,000 Kip and having done numerous hill-fort  treks in the Sahyadri mountains(Western Ghats) in my home state of Maharashtra in India  this 328 steps ascent was child's play even at my young age.

View of Mekong side of Luang Prabang from Mt Phousi.

                                                        Stopped at few places to photograph as well as admire the Buddha statues placed at various points of the hill.Finally at 1345 hrs reached the summit of Mt Phousi startled by my own accomplishment as just yesterday i had walked up 100 steps to Park Ou caves.The Kenyans and Mr Benjamin would have marveled at my staying capacity and would say it to  be a bit of the "Kenya birth link". Ahoy ! The view from the top of Mt Phousi was excellent on a bright and cool sunny day.On one side of the mountain through which i made my ascent was the river Nam Khan while on the opposite side was the mighty river Mekong Luang Prabang airport was distinctly visible in the distance.

View Nam Khan side of Luang Prabang  from Mt Phousi.

                                                  The summit of Mt Phousi has the Buddhist shrine "Wat Chomsi" built in 1804. After a few photographs in one of  which two young ladies posed with me as my fans began my descent back to base.Took the opposite route towards the Mekong River side and walked down towards the National museum ground on Sisavangvong street..Quenched my thirst with a fruit shake drink of passion fruit while relaxing on one of the benches on the elevated garden lawn facing the museum. After a brief rest walked back down familiar Sisavangvong street ,a haven for the tourism Industry of Luang Prabang .At the intersecting cross road made my way down towards the Nam Khan river bank embankment and the  straight walk to "Aham Hostel".

Beautiful houses of UNESCO town Luang Prabang.

                                                                                     Relaxed on the laptop also having a simultaneous conversation with Californian Jeremiah.Travel educates and did learn a little about the "BITCOIN" industry from Mr Jeremiah.Later in the evening walked down to the "Night Market" and took home a "Duck Fried rice + pork barbecue stick + shrimp barbecue stick" back to the hostel . Luang Prabang has a strong French influence and most cafe's and even "Aham hostel" akin to Paris restaurants have open air seating facing the pavements.Dinner was  trademark "Beerlao" watching tourists walk by Aham guesthouse". After dinner had a walk down "Old Sisouphanh street" on which i was living and was amazed at the festival decor of the restaurants and home-stay's.

 

Plush hotel on Nam Khan riverside of Luang Prabang.

                                      This part of Luang Labang was on the banks of the Nam Khan river .I was the lone Sub Continent tourist while the rest were all mostly Caucasians or Mongoloids from Korea,Japan or Taiwan besides the locals.Partying in Laos is expensive in comparison to Bangkok,Vietnam or even Cambodia and hence could be a reason for Indian tourists not seen in large numbers in Laos, beside's, it's French and not English that is the link language in Laos. Seems "CLUB STYLE PARTYING' as in Bali, Bangkok or Vietnam  was absent in Luang Prabang as i didn't hear any loud music nor advertisements of night club party's. Luang Prabang is a staunch Buddhist town with a Buddhist temple( Wat ) at almost every corner of the town. Had a reasonable 4 hrs sleep.

Seated on the footpath stool opposite Luang Prabang post office awaiting the arrival of the Buddhist monks for the "ALMS DONATION RITUAL". The basket in my hand contains cooked "Sticky  rice  " to be offered to each monk as they pass alongside the footpath  collecting alms from devotees and tourists. This is a daily morning ritual in Luang Prabang and a big tourist attraction..

Seated on the footpath to donate "ALMS" to the Monks.

Sunday(5/1/2020) Departure "Aham Backpackers hostel" in  Luang Prabang and arrival at "Nana backpackers hostel" in Vang Vieng :- Was awake early as usual and at 0415 hrs had my bath and toilet routines with the morning agenda being a visit to the "Buddhist Monks Alms giving" ceremony.The Laos Buddhist tradition of Alms giving dates back to the 14th Century and daily around 200 Buddhist monks from various Buddhist temples in UNESCO heritage Town Luang Prabang walk down the streets before daybreak  collecting alms from the people. Left my hostel at 0500 hrs and it was a short walk to the "Luang Prabang Post office" building  next to the "Night Market" where a row of small stools were kept in a line on the pavement boundary wall as seating arrangement  for tourists and devotees .

Monks collecting & donating alms in Luang Prabang.

                                                                                                                                   Purchased a 20000 Kip basket  of "Sticky Rice " from one of the  hawkers selling the same to tourists and devotees.Sat on the stool which was gradually getting filled as tourists arrived and started occupying the stools. At approximately 0545 hrs the first line of Buddhist monks arrived in a single queue walking along the footpath past  the row of seated followers as well as tourists who offered each monk a fistful of cooked rice or some other offering.Took some photographs as photography was allowed .When my turn came i also offered the same and after my donation basket got empty got up from the stool and began the early morning walk back to "Aham Hostel". 

Change of Vans on mountain  on way to Vang Vieng.

                                                                                                                            Breakfast was at 0745 hrs and a large crowd of backpackers from France were leaving for some other destination along with me.Young Buddhist child monks regularly pass along Old Sisouphanh street past our hostel after the early morning alms donation ceremony. As they passed along today managed to make a short video film of the same.At 0900 hrs our Minibus arrived and made myself comfortable at a window seat.The bus gradually collected all the passengers with the total capacity being 12 passengers  from various hotels,hostels and home stays to finally begin its 183 Kms drive to Vang Vieng

At Mountain top :-Finnish tourists biking entire Laos.

                                                 .It was a drive along mountainous terrain and the bus was either driving up a incline or down a incline road but rarely on a straight road. On reaching the  rest stop of a mountain we stopped and were told to change vans.The entire mountain was covered in mist with visibility of the neighbouring forests reduced to zero visibility.Spotted a few sports bike on the ground  and came across two Finnish citizens getting onto their bikes for riding across Laos.Took a photo with a parked heavy duty "Kawasaki Monster" and wondered what it would feel like riding across entire Laos on my "Royal Enfield Bullet".Finally after changing buses we made our onward journey towards Vang Vieng and finally at approximately 1320 hrs reached the end of our journey in Vang Vieng town.

Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng mountainous travel

                                                                                                                                                  Vang Vieng was first settled in 1353 as a staging post between Vang Vieng and Vientiane, the same route i was travelling.During the Vietnam war( 1964- 1973) the U.S.A constructed a air force base and runaway called "Lima Site 6" in Vang Vieng Town  which gave it prominence and decades later "TUBING" put Vang Vieng on the International tourist map..After alighting the minibus my next job was in finding the location of "Nana Backpackers hostel".Was hungry and entered a local restaurant for lunch as well as inquired about the hostel location with the restaurant employee who  rang up the hostel and agreed to taxi me to the hostel on his two wheeler scooter.

Arrival in Vang Vieng and lunch at local restaurant.

                                              After a lunch of fried rice/beef costing 20,000 Kip the employee  took me  double seat along with  my luggage towards "Nana Backpackers hostel".Finally reached the main gate of " Nana Backpackers hostel" which has a small swimming pool at its entrance.Thanked the employee after paying him 10,000 Kip for his services and made my way to the reception lounge.After paying the hostel fees in advance checked into dormitory N0 113 situated on the first floor  of this sprawling hostel complex.Took a bottom bed "N0 83" in  the "10 Bed Mix Accommodation" dormitory and although never attended boarding school felt i was back to college among the 20's something age group of room-mates .

Classic "Nana Backpackers hostel" with Swimming pool.

                                                                                                               .Many of them could be even younger and in their teens .Caucasian's from First World country's travel at a young age and i would bet that most of these boys and girls were just out of school or college.Saw the bold warning board " PLEASE NO SEX IN THE DORM ROOM" posted at the swimming pool lobby.Travel educates even at my young age ! .After making myself at home in one of  my homes away from home relaxed on my laptop in the hostels open air "Pool-Room cum Bar".A group of locals were busy at the pool table while i got busy on the lap-top. Ahoy ! Later in the evening walked along the street and inquired with a local about the riverfront and was surprised to hear this local man speaking fluent American English.

Partying hostel:- Free Whisky/Rum from 1900-2100 hrs.

                            Returned back to the hostel which was now crowded with the youth having just arrived from a "TUBING" adventure, the extreme sport that put Vang Vieng ,once just a sleepy village onto  the International World tourist map.Free drinks were served at the bar between 1900-2100 hrs and after taking a shot of local "Tiger Whisky"  relaxed on the chair facing the swimming pool.A middle-aged Caucasian was sitting next to me and requested him to take a photo of mine and so Mr Joseph.Beer , a I.T professional from Brisbane in Australia and myself became acquaintances and got to understand a bit of the living conditions of Australia as also sad of the "Bush Fire" raging in various parts of the Australian continent.

Music,Partying & Pool at "Nana Backpackers hostel"

                                                                                                                                              As we were talking noticed a Asian entering the hostel and presuming him to be either a  Pakistan  or Indian tourist introduced myself and newcomer  Mr Prabal. Patel from Bangalore joined us in the conversation.He had lived in San Francisco and was now on a mission of travel as also authoring a book.As mentioned throughout my travels through various hostels , home-stays and hotels have met people of different cultures and professions proving the fact that after formal education its travel that educates a person during a lifetime. After my normal 2 "FREE Tiger Whisky " pegs decided it was time for dinner and walked out of the hostel to the local fruit shop.Fruits are cheap and of excellent quality. Dinner was sliced pineapple along with excellent "Pork Soup" at the food stall situated opposite the fruit shop.After dinner was back to my dormitory bed and got a decent 4 hrs sleep .

Tourist Speed boating  rides  early in the morning on the Nam Song River in Vang Vieng. Notice the beautiful Karst hills  that surround Vang Vieng town.Very popular with Japanese and South Korean tourists .Unlike Luang Prabang Town which had uniformsingle or at maximum 2 storey slanting roof buildings Vang Vieng had a few large concrete hotel buildings as seen in this picture.

Vang Vieng with its Krast Mountains and Nam Song river.

Monday(6/1/2020) Vang Vieng :-  Was awake at 0445 hrs and unlike "Aham Hostel" in Luang Prabang the toilet and bathrooms of Nana Backpackers were on the ground floor lobby of the hostel.Observed that all the toilet latches were broken ,typical boarding school/college students living style .After my toilet routines walked into the pitch darkness of the dormitory experiencing "College hostel " living at the young age of 59 years.Thanks to the torchlight managed to pick up my laptop and in the morning darkness browsed the internet at the poolside table.Later got dressed and decided to explore the Nam Song river .It was a short walk from the hostel towards the river front and on the way purchased a boiled "Momo" stuffed with non-veg ingredients costing 5000 Kip.

Did a "DIPLOMA IN THE ART OF COCKFIGHTING" !

                                                           Further down the road entered a local restaurant and tasted the local Laos Coffee/Tea costing 5000 Kip. Was given two small glasses, one containing lemon tea and the other dark black non-milk coffee.After the morning refreshment drink walked towards the river front and to my utter amazement came across two "Fighting Cocks" kept in two separate baskets outside a restaurant.Walked further down towards the river front onto the wooden bridge and took a few photos of tourists passing under the bridge in their speed boat canoes.Made my way back towards the hostel and on the way had a talk with the owner of the "Fighting Cocks" Mr Tott..He said cock-fighting was held every Saturday and Sunday's and said he would take me to a "Cockfight" on Saturday. . 

Wooden bridge across Nam Song river

                                                                                                                                     Thanked him for the information and walking down the road came across Mr Prabal.Patel having breakfast in "Five Nine Laty "restaurant, a Parisian style road facing restaurant. Entered the restaurant which had one of the largest water buffalo horns hung as a trophy. Discussed travel with Mr Patel and left the restaurant taking a photograph of this freak water buffalo trophy .The restaurant owners told me it was over 60 years old as i am sure its difficult to find domestic water buffalo's with a horn span of this size as commercial meat harvesting of buffalo is reducing the size of the species 

"TUBING INDUSTRY" of Vang Vieng.

                                                     .Rarely are cattle allowed to grow or die of natural causes as the meat industry ensures maximum profitability by optimum breeding and slaughtering.On returning to the hostel took rest sitting in the spacious open-air bar cum pool room busy on my lap top.Later  took a walk down the now same familiar main road and cutting across into main night market street having the entrance banner titled "V-Town ,The Walking Street".Walked passed the wooden bridge diversion road  and realized that akin to Luang Prabang the city of Vang Vieng was overpopulated with hotels and hostels and many   monastery's akin to Luong Prabang. One major difference from Luang Prabang was the presence of multistorey hotel buildings upto 6 floors with a terrace unlike Luong Prabang where every house had a sloping roof and was not more that 2 storey's in height.Made my way back towards the wooden bridge and on the way tasted some banana fritters at a street side local eatery  which was excellent at 1000 Kip/Fritter.Finally on arriving at the bridge  crossed the wooden bridge onto the other side of the Nam Song river which housed a palatial hotel resort with the hut style houses propped up on cement stilt rods .

Water Buffalo Horn" in " Five Nine Latty" restaurant.

      After a brief stroll in the vicinity made my way  back and on the way inquired the price of "Hot air Ballooning" which varied from U.S $ 90 to U.S $ 100 as competition between tour operators  definitely resulted in price differences to woo tourists.Business competition follows the same ethics all over the Globe.Lunch was "Pork soup/Vegetables"at the family restaurant of Mr Tott ,owner of the "Fighting Cocks" whom i met on my morning visit and so watching "Cock-Fights" in Laos was on the agenda having witnessed illegal cockfights in India,Bali and legal cockfights in Manila. I find it strange and bizarre that so called "Animal rights Activists" find "Cock     

"NIGHT MARKET STREET" of Vang Vieng.

                                                             Fighting" a animal cruelty sport but will not raise a whisper while consuming chicken flesh in the confines of their homes little realizing the cruelty these farm chickens endure to feed us humans.At least the "Fighting Cocks" live a lavish life for a few years or a year unlike their "Broiler Chickens" confined to packed cages for a life-span of a few months let alone a year or years. I have stated my case and "Animal Rights Activists" please reason why "COCK-FIGHTING" is banned on cruelty basis while cruelty is overlooked in the case of rearing and transportation of "Broiler Chickens" for food consumption.Agree to the banning of "COCKFIGHTING" on grounds of gambling but definitely not on the grounds of cruelty to the birds destined as human food consumption.On the way took a different by-lane to the main road and came across a restaurant that had two large statues of "Fighting Cocks" at its main door entrance.

Old and the new residential buildings in Vang Vieng.

                              A optimist would think  that akin too Uri.Geller i do possess some "PSYCHIC TELEPATHY" intuition as  this bizarre co-incidences of coming across living fighting cocks and later statues of fighting cocks within a short time frame could be considered magic.Relaxed in the hostel and later had a swim in the hostel's pool which was only about 5 feet in depth.Today was a total rest day from travel exploration and just whiled away the evening at the pool,Strolled around the hostel vicinity and realized that the local inhabitants lived a normal rural self sustaining lifestyle. Came across a large stilt propped cottage house having a chicken coop and a small vegetable garden within its fenced boundary.A elderly man was working on his vegetable garden.

Vang Vieng "Night Market" street.

                                                     Typical rural lifestyle. Later at about 1830 hrs the entire group of "TUBERS" arrived back at the hostel which again became noisy with the crowd diving into the pool.If not for the tourist invention of "TUBING"and its Karst hill caves  this tiny village of Vang Vieng would have remained one of the ordinary towns  on the Laos landscape.Mr Prabal.Patel had been with the group for the "Tubing" and said it was marvelous.At 1900 hrs the "FREE BAR" opened and "Tiger " brand local Laos whisky and Vodka was on the house.It was akin to being at a "D.J.Nightclub" every night with excellent loud music with  the swimming pool adding that rich aura to the ambiance of "Nana Backpackers Hostel". 5-Star ambiance was what i would describe the pool-side party's of this hostel.

In the "Night Market" street cafe.

                                                                                                                      Prabal had decided to rent a scooter for sightseeing the caves and "Blue Lagoons" and i volunteered to join him as i was unaccustomed to "Left Hand Drive".After my normal "2 Chota(Hindi for small) Pegs" of Vodka made my way to the "Night Market".Akin to Luang Prabang the Vang Vieng "Night Market" was also held on the road but in the form of stalls and not on the floor of the road.The tourist crowd was also less in comparison to Luang Prabang..Tasted the local "Coconut Pancakes" costing 5000 Kip served on a tiny banana leaf and later dinner was a local pork dish costing 20,000 Kip that tasted sweet and not to my personal liking.Came across a cute kitten while eating dinner and shared some morsels with the tiny kitten.After dinner returned back to the hostel where the music was blaring and the young crowd engrossed in playing "Pool" , drinking or just chatting besides the pool-side.The music closed at 2300 hrs and swimming in the pool forbidden after mid-night although no one swims at night due to the cold weather.Dormitory accommodation was excellent with the A/c functioning perfectly at 23*c ambient temp and although 10 tourists to the large room didn't feel claustrophobic or uncomfortable.Had my normal 4 hrs sleep.

On Stairway of " UPPER THAM CHANG CAVES"  with a group of Buddhist monks.

Exploring Vang Vieng on a "Honda Wave"

Tuesday(7/1/2020) Vang Vieng :- After my normal toilet routines got busy at the laptop while the hostels staff were busy cleaning the hostel  complex.Breakfast was a "Tuna Sandwich" costing 10,000 Kip.The French influence on Laos besides the housing design is the excellent confectionery and bread products, a replica copy of Parisian confectionery and cheap.Day's  agenda  was to visit the "Blue Lagoon's" along with hostelite Mr Patel with the mode of transport being hired scooters. Prabal had woken up late and the explorer in me decided to do a "Solo" in visiting the  Tham Chang caves situated in Meuang Xong  village which was a short bike ride from the hostel.The caves name means "Unable to move" and also has a historical significance in the country's history. Hired a "Honda wave" motorcycle  from the hostel at a fee of 50,000 Kip with  the security of my passport.The hostel employee informed me the basics of riding the motorcycle  as every vehicle is different from the other and honestly the lightweight "Honda wave" maneuverability felt like a toy in my hands  after developing into a veteran "Royal Enfield Bullet 350" rider back home in Mumbai. Ahoy !

Crossing the river Nam Song Bridge

                                                                  For the first time in my life i was driving on the "Left Hand" side of a road as Laos has "Left hand drive" and it was confusing  but thankfully the traffic was negligible and the quick learner in me adjusted to circumstances and situations.The road was horrible reminding me of the marathon ride in 2019 from Goa to Mumbai via the Konkan coast of India .Read the same in my "Motorcycle travels" as also my numerous other travelogues.Finally arrived at the Tham Chang cave complex which is the closest cave to Vang Vieng city with the  entry fee being  5000 Kip. After entering the complex parked my bike and had to walk across the long bridge built across the Nam Song river.After crossing the bridge came to the entrance of the stairways leading to the caves.Entrance fee was 10,000 Kip and although i had retired from mountain trekking a few years ago realized that hill fort or cave trekking would always be a part of my travel itinerary as also testing my fitness prowess.It was a long arduous walk up the broad stairs to the entrance of the cave.The entrance was just a small opening but once inside the cave it seemed a endless maze of narrow tunnels. 

Inside the lighted tunnel of THAM CHANG caves.

                                                                        This cave was used as a bunker to defend against the marauding Jeen Hor(Yuaneese Chinese) during the 19th century and hence the most famous cave in Vang Vieng. Thankfully it was well lit and i was one of the earliest tourists inside this historic cave.Almost got lost in the maze of tunnels trying to find my way back to the entrance and heaved a sigh of relief when i spotted two tourists along with a Buddhist monk heading towards me and followed them to the entrance/exit of the cave.   

Exploring amazing  THAM CHANG  caves.

                                                               While descending the stairs came across a group of Buddhist monks walking up the stairs towards the cave and one of the monks with long hair resembled a "Rock Star" and requested a photo with me and was later joined by other monks. After finally reaching ground level made my way to the "Lower Tham Chang Caves" which has a "Blue Lagoon".Undressed into my swimming costume and it was a relief having a dip in this pure crystal clear unpolluted water.Later Mr "Rock Star Monk".also came towards the lagoon and had a dip as also being photographed by other monks. He had a Rasputin type personality ,strikingly handsome and definitely the leader of his group of monks.After the dip in the lagoon entered the "Lower Tham Chang  caves" which thankfully didn't involve much climbing of stairs and was just a small prayer chamber with the statue of the Buddha. Walked past the bridge and observed some men scanning the shallow river bed .

Entrance to "Lower Tham Chang Cave "

                                                                                                                                                   Rode the short distance back to the hostel with the agenda being to join Prabal and ride together to "Blue Lagoon 1,2,3". To my sheer disbelief Prabal was not present at the hostel and since i had already hired the bike had no alternative but to do a self-discovery solo ride to "Blue Lagoon-1,2,3".Someone said "Necessity is the mother of invention " ! Asked directions with the hostel reception staff and the gambler in me  mustering courage rode out of the hostel and drove down "Walking Street" asking directions with locals. Comedian Charlie Chaplin would have got ideas for his next comedy by witnessing my amazing courage  in "Solo Motorcycling" on a untested bike in a foreign country having a different driving system. 

Crystal clear lagoon of Tham Chang Caves.

                                                                             The road was atrocious and a road fit for competitive "Dirt Bike racing".Finally reached the narrow wooden bridge built for vehicular traffic across the Nam Song river.After decades came across a bridge that i normally saw in World War-2 films but never ever crossed across with a vehicle.The toll charges were 10,000 Kip and since the bridge was narrow there was a transit system of heavy motorized 4-wheeler's being given preference over 2-wheeler in a systematic format.Finally crossed the bridge and it was a nice long ride across the Laotian countryside towards Nathong Village.
 

Vintage "Wooden Bridge" over Nam Song River.

                                                                      The looming Krast mountains and the barren rice  paddy  fields rejuvenated me from my body-aches after trekking up the  stairs to Buddhist caves since my arrival in Laos.Riding along the countryside without any traffic is a experience of a different nirvana and hence the popularity of biking especially long distance biking among 2-wheeler owners across the Globe, irrespective of nationality or sex.Initially stopped at a road diversion indicating Khan caves and rode down a battered gravel road to the entry point. The ticket issuer told me that this was just a Buddhist cave and not the "Blue lagoon " and thanking him for the advice rode further down the narrow  highway road.

"BLUE LAGOON-1".Natural tree top swings & Jumps.

    Finally reached the gate to  "Pokham Cave , Blue Lagoon -1" and entrance was 10,000 Kip.The sight that greeted my eyes was straight from a "Tarzan " film set with tourists swinging from a rope tied on a natural growing tree and jumping into  the "Blue Lagoon -1". Crossed a small bridge built across the narrow lagoon which had fish swimming on the surface. Most of the tourists were French and South Korean citizens with the South Koreans swimming with life-floats unlike the Parisians of whom one young man performed a somersault dive from the tree branch that acted as a "Diving Board".Akin to Kuang Si waterfalls in Luang Prabang this "Blue Lagoon-1" was akin to a natural swimming pool complete with a "Diving Board" and also strict warnings of the hazards of reckless swimming and jumping onto the water from the tree branch or the ropes.

Another view of "Blue Lagoon-1" :- A wonder of Nature.

                                               Remember that the "Tarzan Franchisee" films were produced with trained actors and stuntmen and the same is difficult to replicate in real life situations.Had a swim myself in the turquoise blue waters that was deceptively calm looking but tremendously deep and hence the "Swimming Warnings" all over the small lagoon.After the swim decided to hike up the hill to visit "Tham Poukham Cave" which i would regret as it almost left me with little energy to walk .The walk up the hill was akin to mountain climbing with ropes as there were no steps akin to the other caves i had visited but a series of uneven large  stone boulders which had to be ascended with the help of clutching rudimentary bamboo railings. 

Testing & exploring "BLUE LAGOON-1".

                                                                                        Finally with great difficulty on my knee caps reached the entrance of the cave which had large stalactites and stalagmites near the entrance..Did not venture into the tunneled cave as it was dark besides i was testing the limits of my physiology.Entering the cave requires a trained guide as companion and also torchlight's  as the  floor is uneven and slippery besides having a continuous flow of underground streams. Inside the cave there are golden Buddha statue's. Finally after some rest at the top which offered a beautiful view of the countryside made my way down which was dangerous and difficult.At times akin to mountain climbing had to get down in reverse using the bamboo railings as a rope.Finally reached ground level and after a brief rest rode back to Nana Backpackers hostel.Met Prabal who had lost his room key and hence couldn't make the planned trip.In the evening rode all along Vang Vieng's roads that was dotted with hotels, hostels, restaurants and massage parlours. Most of them were empty and devoid of tourists. At the Nam Song riverside came across a Finnish citizen renting rooms to tourists and although not a citizen had been living in Vang Vieng since the last 18 years. 

Punishing trek to "THAM POUKHAM"

                                                                                                                                                    He was talking to a young German tourist and  told me that tourist income was very bad since the last two years with most hostels and restaurants devoid off tourist income Rode around the "Night Market" street which was just getting ready with the hawkers arriving on the street to set up their temporary "Night Shops".Noticed that akin to Luang Prabang there were numerous Buddhist temples in the small town of Vang Vieng. Came across a Bangladesh restaurant and for the first time spoke in Hindi in Vang Vieng. The Bangladeshi owner told me that he was not a citizen but just running his business akin to the Finnish house rental owner i had met previously.Also discovered "Vang Vieng" bus station from where out-station buses arrived and left the town.Barring literacy in  Lao language i could now call myself thoroughly versed into the Lao lifestyle and way of living.. Returned back to the hostel at 1800 hrs and returned the bike as also collecting my passport that was the guarantor for the bike. Ahoy !Spent the evening listening to the excellent "D.J.Music" and sipping my quota of "Free Vodka" shots between 1900-2100 hrs.Vodka added with Lao pineapple juice shake was a fantastic recipe i discovered  and after two pegs had dinner at the nearby family run restaurant.Had a decent 4 hrs.

"TUBING" on the Nam Song river :- After floating on the tube from  our start point  on the river we gradually drifted downstream  and arrived  here at our first "BAR cum DANCE " floating barge.It was a orgy of music, drinks and dance before proceeding on our respective "TUBES" to the next  entertainment station.There were a total of 3 stations  with the 3rd station being the last stop of the entire afternoon's tubing on the Nam Song river. Something totally different akin to being shipwrecked and drifting  on a life-raft on the water.Try "TUBING" once in your lifetime.

In the Van on our way for "TUBING" in Nam Song river.

Wednesday(8/1/2020) Vang Vieng :- Woke up early as usual observing the hostel staff doing their regular routines of cleaning up the entire hostel.Beside's Prabal i was the only Sub Continent tourist in this hostel crowded with young Caucasian backpackers.I am sure that most of the youngsters at "Nana Backpackers" were either from the Millennial generation or in their early 20's.Late celebrity  lawyer Ram.Jethmalini's  secret to his mental youth was keeping abreast with every successive younger generation either by divulging and teaching his personal experiences(Case Studies) or learning new thoughts and living from the younger generation.Breakfast was at  "Five Nine Laty" restaurant with its iconic  trademark " Water Buffalo Horn" trophy.

Drifting on my "TUBE" with "Waterproof camera bag"

                                                                                           Ate the largest egg sandwich in my life along with coffee costing a total of 15,000 Kip. After breakfast walked the short distance back to the hostel and on paying 65,000 Kip booked a tour for Vang Vieng's most famous extreme adventure sport "TUBING". "TUBING" is sadly also linked with tragedy and deaths since its accidental invention  by local Mr Thanongsi. Sorangkoun in 1998 . The worst year  for "TUBING" was 2011 when at least 27 tourists were confirmed dead and many injured during "TUBING" across the Nam Song river.Most of these deaths occurred due to intoxication of either liquor or drugs or combination of both . Another reason for accidental deaths was experimenting in extreme adventure water sports like swinging on Tarzan style swings hung from trees or diving into the shallower parts of the river  and hitting a submerged rock .The Nam Song river is very shallow in certain parts although the same can't be detected from the surface.

Dare devil jump/diving & Partying.

                                                                                                Local Laotians believe that the river is haunted due to the numerous amount of tourist death's  over the decades.Since 2012 the local police put a restriction on the number of shore  floating bars  and risky water adventure sports along the "TUBING" route of  Nam Song river which has helped in reducing accidental deaths.But accidents still occur annually.  At approximately 1215 hrs  two jeeps arrived at the hostel gate and was surprised to see a large crowd of young backpackers from "Nana Backpackers Hostel" get into the two jeeps. Majority were Caucasian tourists from Israel while a few from Norway.It was a long drive from the city centre into the non-paved roads of the villages , a very bumpy ride and a nightmare for 2-wheeler's. Finally we stopped at a shed where  inflated large tractor tyre tubes were loaded onto the roof-top of the jeep vans.After the loading of the inflated tubes we drove further and finally reached the banks of the Nam Song river.

"Bar Games" & "Dance"at"TUBING  BARGE STATION".

                                                                        Each tourist was given a inflated rubber tyre tube  and in my eagerness i forgot my slippers on the banks of the river Nam Song thinking i was at a swimming pool.Old habits die hard as i am a regular swimmer at the "M.G.M.O( Mahatma Gandhi Memorial Olympic) " pool back home in Mumbai. It was a wonderful feeling floating on a rubber tube and gradually being dragged down the river by the current and downward flow of the water."TUBING" is what transformed a once ordinary village of Vang Vieng in  Laos into a tourist hot-spot  in the country.Our first "BAR CUM ENTERTAINMENT " stop was after crossing below  a highway bridge connecting both banks of the Nam Song river.

"TUBING" to the next "ENTERTAINMENT STATION".

                                  As my tube approached the floating wooden barge a rope was thrown and i was heaved onto the stationary platform as were the rest of the young crowd of tourists.Once everyone was on the barge the music, dancing and drinking commenced which was something unique. As this was a majority Israeli crowd a few Yiddish songs were also played and the women were dancing to glory in bikini's . Having visited Israel in 2008  and browsing through my hotel magazines in Jerusalem on Israel culture was surprised to read about the sexual freedom within Israeli society.Now in 2020 i was experiencing average Israeli youth partying and it was something amazing.A sight that would give India's once flamboyant billionaire  Industrialist Mr Vijay.Mallya's " Goa Poolside Party's" a run for their moolah ( Hindi slang for money) and "Page 3" newspaper gossip. Ahoy ! During a popular Yiddish song the entire young crowd started jumping on the stationary floating barge creating a earthquake and i quickly dived for cover to prevent my phone or camera slipping from the table . A popular Hindi Bhangra song was also played  and liquor flowed like water. The only song i could identify with was the music of "Queen" and the rest was all Millennial generation music.Noticed a heavily tattooed young man wearing a tiny sailor cap while his partner wore a large similar cap.

Snacks/Drinks/Dance at "Tubing Station -2"on shore.

                                The tattoo's on his body was real art and Mr Joe from Norway was a multi-talented swimmer and juggler .On this platform there was a "Dive Post" erected for either diving or jumping into the water and Mr Joe did a beautiful somersault from the short dive board along with his lady companion .I just dived into the deep water and swam a little as i totally abstained from drinking.As the partying frenzy reached its peak a bottle of free "Tiger whisky" was circulated of which the "Miser" took a few sips and that was it.Later another group of mostly South Korean tourists arrived on the barge and our group of revelers had to leave for our next "Entertainment Stop".

Not a "Film Set locale " but "TUBING STATION -2".

                                    Got onto our respective tubes and gradually floated down the Nam Song river.A employee of the tour company was constantly patrolling the waters on a motorized canoe and at times helped slow tube drifters gain momentum by making  them clutch onto the canoe while it moved along.Finally reached entertainment stop N0 2 which was a land based shack and not a floating barge.We alighted at this stop and it was the same repeat of music, dance, drinks and eating. I had a snack of  barbecue chicken and marveled at the fact that youth are youth irrespective of generational changes and technological innovations with each generation. I have had my youth although in a different time zone and generation.Was getting to understand the partying scene of the millennial generation although from different country's and culture.

"Tubing" to  last stop "Station No-3"  on Nam Song river 

                                                               Finally from "Tubing Entertainment Stop-2" we began our slow drift towards our last and final destination " Entertainment Stop N0 -3".Came across a canoe boat with local fishermen casting nets into the river and at times i drifted onto the shore getting beached in the process.It was akin to a dead man floating with the current and control of the tube direction was by means of using my  hands as a boat paddle. Ahoy ! During  floating  i once felt a peck on my foot realizing it was a fish that thought my foot  was some morsel of food.Luckily it was  not a giant sized fish otherwise would have been in the news as a casualty and on the next episode of Jeremy.Wade's real life tele-serial "River Monster's. Tubing "  Entertainment Stop N0 3" was the end of our day's tubing across a specific length of the Nam Song river.It was a land based resort and restaurant where the partying continued.Here there was a "ZIP-LINE" attached from the opposite side of the river towards our end and tourists would  slide down the zip-line and on reaching mid-way plunge into the river.

"Tubing Station-3:guide Johnny.Whisky.

                                                                 A few tourists did the zip-line jump and one young pretty bikini lady from Norway ,with film star looks  excelled in acrobatic dives from the zip-line."Daddy Cool" would have advised her to audition for a "James Bond Franchisee" movie ,a crowd puller with amazing charisma as well as talent.A Dutch tourist Mr Ruud  asked me if i was doing the jump and although a good swimmer, diving or jumping in the pool was not my strong point in aquatics akin to scuba diving.I did try a few times at the "M.G.M.O" pool in Mumbai and it left me with a bad experience as landing on your chest or back could be like hitting a flat surface.Finally decided to take the plunge and to my horror landed flat on my back. The pain was akin to a burning sensation and my costume was almost ripped off .On reaching land suddenly realized that my "Blood-stone Silver ring" was missing from my finger and was sad for the same. The Nam Song river would have a memory of my ring somewhere on the bottom . Bizarrely Uri.Geller and Mumbai astrologist Mr Bejan. Daruwalla  would find some mystique in me losing two rings in a river.

Grand Finale of "TUBING" :- Zipline Jump into river.

                                                                                                                                       In 2019 lost a silver ring  purchased from Bangkok while swimming in the Sitanadi river near my mother's ancestral house in Mangalore. Today i lost a ring fabricated near my locality in India in the Nam Song river in Laos.Are you superstitious or believe in the supernatural that  one of the river spirits of the Nam Song river was enamored by my ring  ? Finally it was a end to the "TUBING" adventure and we all got into the jeep vans after they were loaded with the tubes and headed towards "Nana Backpackers hostel".The ride back was worse akin to being on a bronco as seen in films and the liquor after-effects  or maybe pure love made a young Brazilian male  tuber and  the sexiest young lady in the group. become publicly amorous and adventurous during the journey."Daddy Cool" was really behaving up-to his nickname ,absolutely calm and serene.

Back to  hostels after unforgettable afternoon "TUBING".

                                                                                                                                                The poster "PLEASE NO SEX IN THE DORM ROOM" at "Nana Backpackers hostel" was no joke but a fact of life."Daddy Cool", the ex "Real McCoy Sailor"  was being re-educated in the art of partying at a young age .Ahoy !The village roads of Laos are unpaved and uneven raising a storm of dust as a vehicle travels across the road.The bumps were horrendous and we were experiencing extreme passenger driving stress .Finally reached home away from home "Nana Backpacker Hostel" and as usual the music began at 1900 hrs with me drowning my monetary losses in a little more than my usual 2 pegs of "Tiger Vodka".

VILLAGE COCKFIGHTING:- In Laos "COCKFIGHTING" is a legalized blood-sport as also in neighbouring Thailand. The cocks fight without knives/Gaffe's  tied to their legs and hence these fights last for an hour or more .It's very similar to "Human Boxing" with each cockfight bout lasting 20 minutes and then a rest break/of 20 minutes.A total of 3 bouts resulting in 60 minutes of brutal pecking and kicking at each other resulting in severe injury which is attended to by local vets during the 20 minutes break. Akin to human boxers wearing different colored boxing shorts so also the fight cock-birds are differentiated by the color band taped around both their legs.One Fight-Cock has a red colour tape around both its legs while its opponent has blue colour taped on its legs.

 

Cockfighting in progress.No Knives tied to legs.

Thursday(9/1/2020) Vang Vieng :- Today was rest day and got up late at 0700 hrs although during the night i occasionally broke my slumber and browsed the internet.Old habits die hard and "INTERNET ADDICTION' has become a part of my lifestyle .Breakfast was  "Fried eggs/Bacon" at "Kaogee Cafe" situated just a short distance from "Nana Backpacker Hostel".Excellent open air Parisian style restaurant and seemed the youth of Israel had  packed onto Vang Vieng in large numbers after completion of their mandatory military service.Came across two young ladies from Israel at the restaurant who were travelling around South East Asia and resembled Indians.Israeli society is multinational with Jews from all over the World including India migrating to Israel and these two young ladies were of Iraqi Baghdad Jewish origin.One of the lady's had done rock climbing in Vang Vieng while the other  had  visited India .

End of 20" Bout :- No Knife tied to Fighting Cock's leg.

                                               After breakfast aimlessly walked towards local Mr Tott's house cum restaurant in downtown Vang Vieng  situated opposite the local post office cum money changer office. He was outside his house and to my utter surprise he agreed to take  me to a local "Cock Fight" arena.I rode pillion on his scooter and in a few minutes we passed alongside "Nana Backpacker hostel"  and further away down the same straight road entered a local school compound . We made a exit from the compound at the other end of this school which led  to a small group of village  houses. To my utter amazement  under the shade of a large tree a temporary small circular cockpit was erected and two cockerels were fighting in the ring.There were not more than 50 people at the venue and a few cock fowls were kept in enclosed baskets in this small compound  in close proximity to the ring.

"Fighting Cock" attended to by local vet after 20" bout.

                              Typical setting of any village cock fight i have witnessed  in Indian villages as well as in Bali in Indonesia.Main difference in Laotian Cockfights was that there was no knife gaffe attached to the fighting cock's leg and hence unlike normal cockfight which lasted only a few seconds or minutes these fights lasted a maximum  of  1 hr. A"Stop Watch" with a alarm bell was strapped to the bark of the tree next to the Cock Fight ring.Each fight was of  of 20 minutes with  a rest gap of a equivalent 20 minutes before the next round with a grand total of 3 rounds of 20 minutes each akin to a boxing match.During the rest interval the cock's received medical aid

Competitor's matching their "Fighting Cocks" on weights. 

.                               While one set of fighting cocks received medical treatment  another pair would be put into the ring for their respective  20 minutes bout.Highly well organized and the skill of the self-trained chicken veterinarians in extending the fighting prowess of their respective fighting cock's   was amazing.A winner was declared if one of the cocks ran away or was too exhausted or injured to stand on its two feet.If both the cocks were on their two feet after 60 minutes of brutal boxing then there was no winner and the fight declared null and void. These same cocks would take about a month to recover and brought to the fighting ring again.I witnessed this type of a bout where there was no winner after 60 minutes of fighting.

Beerlao & Cockfights, a pastime in Laos.

                                                                                                                       Thanks to a local spectator who spoke a little English that i got to understand Laos Cock fighting.On my way back got a lift from a local on a motorcycle and realized that the school was only about 2 Kms from Nana Backpackers hostel.Had some rest  at the hostel browsing through the internet next to the poolside.Real 5-star ambiance and definitely the hostel doing the best business in a small town dotted with hostels and guesthouses.Later in the evening strolled around the vicinity and saw two "Gas Balloon"  on the verge of landing in the distance.Walked past the Government hospital,the  only hospital in Vang Vieng,Research told me that Vang Vieng hospital was not as good as the hospital in Vang Vieng or neighbouring Thailand.Among foreigners most of the hospitalization was during "TUBING".To think that it was a simple idea of "TUBING" on the river Nam Song that started a series of adventure sports activity in this tiny town of Vang Vieng seems unbelievable. 

"HOT AIR BALLOONING" in Vang Vieng.

                              Rock climbing,Buggy car driving, and micro-plane flying are some of the other activities in Vang Vieng. Dinner was at "Luangxaikhom Restaurant" which had Laotian floor cushion style sitting on a large wooden bed.Similar to the Indian or oriental style of sitting on cushions on the floor bur here instead of the floor it was a bed. Travel educates.Had my normal 4 hrs sleep in the air-conditioned dormitory with temps maintained at 23*c.I am allergic to extreme A/C cooling but the A/C cooling in both "Aham Guesthouse" in Luang Prabang and now at "Nana Backpackers hostel" was very efficient and well maintained with the A/C only being switched onn at night.

Inside "PHA THAO CAVES" moving around the cave with the help of a torchlight.

Riding to Vang Vieng Caves & "Blue Lagoon -2"

Friday(10/1/2020) Vang Vieng :- After a excellent bath in Jacuzzi style shower with the water being extremely hot got dressed and ready for the day's travel exploration itinerary. Hired the "Honda wave" motorcycle at 60 Kip for 12  hrs and rode early in the morning towards destination Pha thao Cave. Pha Thao cave is located about 15 kilometers from Vang Vieng town.It was a pleasant early morning ride and on the way photographed the Buddhist temples in Vang Vieng Town. It was a long ride on highway 13 towards Pha Thao cave and as i was travelling alone language was the biggest obstacle and that's where decades of travel experience came to my rescue as at one point i even thought of returning back to the town. 

A glimpse of village farming & Karst Mountains.

                                                                                                         Stopped for breakfast at a family home cum restaurant which is a common form of entrepreneurship in Laos.Breakfast was typical Laotian soup with the occupants not speaking a word of English language.While i was leaving one of the house lady's took three of the household kids to school  on her motorcycle which included a toddler in one of her arms. No wonder the Americans lost the Vietnam war with Laos being the target of the most bombed country/ capita on Planet Earth.Finally riding down the highway came across a off-beaten country road diversion where thankfully there was a sign indicator indicating that this unpaved rubble road was the route to Elephant caves, Water Caves and Pha Thao caves.

Stalactites & Stalagmites inside Pha Thao caves.

                                                       Riding down this off-beaten country road brought  me into the Laotian countryside with dry harvested rice paddy fields on both sides of this terrible unpaved road.Finally reached Pha Thao  village  after crossing a bridge over the narrow Nam Song river inquiring  for directions and again language was the hurdle.Ate some banana's as a energy booster at a  village home cum restaurant. Luckily there was a direction indicator and rode my motorcycle along a narrow path between the river Nam Xong and  Pha Thao village farmland.Slight riding error could mean disaster and it was akin to riding in a dirt track competition only difference being that this was a real life road travel situation and not a artificial dirt race track.   

Dangerous wooden stairway to  Pha Thao caves.

                                                                                                       Finally reached Pha Thao cave entrance but found the booking counter closed and was confused when a German tourist inquired with me if the caves were closed for the day as he was in a group tour of German tourists.Providence came to our rescue and at that very moment the ticket booking staff arrived and opened the entrance and booking counter.Entrance fee was 10,000 Kip and i made my way into the cave with this large group of German tourists.Legend of the caves is that it was once the underground residence of the locals with proof of remnants of their existence among the silver and golden coloured rocks. There is also a superstition that visiting this cave brings good luck and hence first time visitors like me usually return here frequently. 

In "BLUE LAGOON-2".

                                                                                                                                               It was a short climb up the rocks through short ladders and on entering the cave was greeted by large Stalactites and Stalagmites. Once inside the cave made our way along the caves with the help of torchlight's. Spotted a large spider inside the cave and thanks to this group of German tourists that i ventured deep inside the tunnel of this cave.A local professional guide is essential for visiting caves in Laos or visit in a group where there is psychological courage in numbers.. A tourist could easily get lost inside a cave if the "TORCH LIGHT" fails or could slip and fall in the slippery conditions inside these caves.A person should have the sure-footedness of a mule while negotiating the boulder steps of some of these caves.Thanked the tourists and decided to ride the long distance back to Vang Vieng and visit "Blue Lagoon -2".Had to ride past my hostel and after a brief rest rode the same route as to "Blue Lagoon-1".

Crystal blue "BLUE LAGOON -2"

                                   Had to pay the "Toll Bridge " charges of 10,000 Kip and it was a long 10 Kms ride to "Angluang Resort(Blue Lagoon-2)".Entrance fee was 10,000 Kip and noticed a lot of small Buggy cars outside the entrance of this water-sports amusement park.I was one of the early visitors and marveled at the sight of the blue waters of "Blue Lagoon-2" which resembled a large pond.Later spotted "Tubing" showman Mr Joe along with two of his Norwegian friends with Mr Joe  easily recognizable with his body artwork tattoo. Saw the film "Blue Lagoon" decades ago and here i was swimming in a authentic "Blue Lagoon".

"BUGGY DRIVING" on Vang Vieng  village dirt roads. 

                     Akin to "Blue Lagoon-1" the water was very deep but the difference was that "Blue Lagoon-1" looked more natural with numerous fish swimming in the vicinity of the lagoon while "Blue Lagoon-2" seemed like a artificial film set.Spotted only a large single fish and observed a employee removing falling leaves from the lagoon waters and hence maintaining its spotless swimming pool type appearance.Later as the hour progressed the resort got filled with Korean tourists.Met two young ladies ,one from Japan and the other from South Korea who spoke fluent English with the Korean lady having visited Mysore in India.Water Zip-lining was also popular at "Blue Lagoon-2" resort .

"SMILE BEACH RESORT" on Nam Song river.

                        Observed that all South Korean tourists always wore water safety jackets while swimming and i am sure most of them would know swimming which speaks volumes on their sense of safety while indulging in leisure activities.No wonder South Korea has one of the highest per-capita incomes among Asian Country's.After 3 swimming sessions in this natural wonder of nature  called "Blue Lagoon-2" headed towards the exit where groups of South Korean tourists were riding out their buggy cars into the Laotian countryside.Rode back to the hostel and relaxed.Lunch was at familiar "Five Nine Laty" restaurant . 
   

Most restaurants in Vang Vieng are named "Full Moon".

                      In the evening rode towards the riverside which has the best tourist restaurants and hotels and came across a wooden bridge joining both sides of the river bank.Once crossing this bridge it was akin to being in a different region as it led to the Countryside villages of Vang Vieng . Came across "Smile Beach Resort" which akin to a sea-side beach had hammocks and benches along the narrow Nam Song river.Excellent for sunbathing while watching various tourists indulging in water sports along the river.It was a excellent "Full moon Night" and the evening was 2 pegs of vodka besides the hostel swimming pool.Later tasted some street food.A normal 4 hrs sleep as usual.

Permanent "COCK FIGHT ARENA" in Vang Vieng. Cockfighting is legal in Laos  and here is a permanent concrete  cemented cock-fight ring along with circular cemented seats encircling the ring.I have seen "Cockfighting" in Manila where the cocks fight with knives/gaffe attached to their legs and hence injure or kill the other fatally with the knife. In Laos "Cockfighting" is without attached knives and hence the fight lasts for a hour or more .In Manila where cockfighting is also legal the stadium is a huge enclosed stadium with a house-full crowd while here in Vang Vieng it was a small open-air stadium with a crowd of about 100 spectators/participants.

Mr Tott exercising "FIGHTING COCKS"

Saturday(11/1/2020) Vang Vieng :- Today's agenda was to visit a "Cock Fighting Stadium" in Vang Vieng and hence after my normal routines and browsing through the internet walked the distance to Mr Tott's residence cum restaurant but found the door closed.Waited for sometime and then totally dejected  headed back towards the hostel using the normal "Walking Street Night Market" road. Uri Geller would agree i have a " SIXTH SENSE"  or as some call "INTUITION"  and on nearing "Aliya Guesthouse" near  the end of the road suddenly noticed a large farm style house next to this guesthouse with cockerels crowing. Destiny and fate is strange for on entering the farmhouse i was greeted by the sight of a few cocks kept enclosed in bamboo baskets.There was a local along with a cock and of all the people was surprised to see Mr Tott  along with his prized fighting cocks.He was "Shadow-Boxing"  his fighting cocks in a small ring and it was a sight rarely seen unless in National Geographic or animal and bird documentaries.

Akin to human boxers a "COCK SPARRING SESSION".

                                       Both the fighting cocks had their beaks fastened to prevent them from pecking each other, one with tape and the other with a string.Both were vicious and after the normal 20 minutes bout were freshened and  again pitted against each other akin to boxers in a training practice bout. "COCKFIGHTING" is legal in Laos .He told me to later meet him at 1100 hrs and that he would take me to the "Cockfighting Stadium" in Laos.Thanked him and made my way towards the hostel.Breakfast was "Fried eggs/French bread" along with coffee and fruits at Luangxaikhom restaurant situated just opposite "Five nine Laty " restaurant .

Legal "COCK FIGHTING STADIUM" 

                                                                                                                                             .As i mentioned there are restaurants and guesthouses in every nook and corner of Vang Vieng and i was wondering on the profitability of many of these large plush hotels and restaurants.In Vang Vieng every restaurant serves a dish of fruits after the main dish and after breakfast walked into a tourist booking office situated  next door and booked my bus ticket to Vientiane costing 50,000 Kip.Relaxed for a while in the hostel and then again walked back to Mr Tott's residence cum restaurant.Lightning can't strike twice and again found his residence closed .Walked back to the farmhouse and the owner of "Aliya Guesthouse" who spoke a little English told me that he would give me a lift to the "Cockfighting Stadium".

A 20 mins "COCK FIGHT"  bout in progress.

                                                                                                          Sipped a pint of  Beerlao at the restaurant and finally one of his employees gave me a lift to the stadium situated just further away from the school where i had watched my first cock fighting in Laos.On entering the venue situated adjacent to the landmark Lisha Grand hotel  was in awe on sighting a large  circular ring built in the centre of a large compound enclosed with sheet metal roofing.There was also another smaller circular ring next to the big main cock fight pit.This was a permanent stadium as the seating arrangements  was permanently cemented as also the large circular "Cockpit" boundary ring."Fighting Cocks" were crowing in their basket enclosures while a cockfight was in progress in the main large circular ring.

"FIGHT COCKS" & "Human owners" in stadium.

                      Having watched my first Laotian cockfight on Thursday i was now a bit aware of the method of the fights although not the finer points as Lao was not my language and i am a very poor linguist.In a corner of this small stadium there was  a T.V showing boxing and Thai boxing fights. Bizarrely the comparison between boxing and cockfighting is almost similar except that the Cock-birds finally perish in the fights as dispensable birds and not humans.In 1995 when witnessing the unforgettable cockfights in Manila wondered what opinion Muhammad Ali would have had on cock fights as a blood sport akin to his "Thrilla in Manila " bout with Joe.Frazier  if he had witnessed a legal stadium cock  fight. 

The "Cock-Fight  Narrator" in the Cock-Fight stadium.

                                                      A group of men were also playing cards and barbecue meat along with other food products and trademark Beerlao  was on sale in this tiny official and legal cockfighting stadium.No comparison to the legal  cockfighting stadium's in Manila but definitely unique as "Cock-Fighting" all over the World gradually got  banned  but still exists in those country's as a illegal sport including  India.In India the sport was once associated with Royalty but today exists illegally in villages in some parts of the Country where the cock's fight with attached knives and money wagered on the fights .I was the only foreigner in the cock fighting stadium  among the crowd of approximately over a hundred  locals.

Cliff View Riverside Bungalows & Restaurant 

   Lunch inside the stadium was barbecued meat with "sticky rice", the common Laotian food. Suddenly sported a Caucasian enter the stadium with a fighting cock in his hands and simple curiosity made me strike a conversation with him .Mr Mehdi was a French citizen employed and residing in Vang Vieng in Laos.He spoke fluent English and thanks to him understood a bit more of this blood sport.He explained the legality of cockfighting by pointing out at a off-duty  policeman seated among the spectators . Waited till the end of Mr Mehdi's cockfight which  lasted the 60 minutes of bouts with his fight-cock bird badly bruised and definitely weaker than his opponent.Seems it would be fighting a 4th round which would be the last .I presumed fights were only of 3 bouts of 20 minutes each bout duration  but Mr Mehdi corrected my cockfighting knowledge stating that it was on the human contestants to decide how many bouts their respective cock bird would fight if the fight exceeded the normal 60 minutes.

Dinner or snacks on banks of the Nam Song river.

                                                                                                       The fight would end when one bird ran away or too bloodied to fight.He told me that "Fighting Cocks" cost a average of 200 U.S $ and was very big money in  neighboring Thailand in comparison to Laos. Thai cockfighting was identical to Lao cockfighting as the cock's  fought without knives attached to their legs. Finally decided had seen and learnt enough of the sport of Cockfighting in Laos and headed out of the stadium. My bigger problem was getting back to the hostel which was a long distance from the stadium and luckily again got a motorcycle lift from a hotel employee heading towards Nana Backpackers hostel. In the evening strolled around downtown Vang Vieng which is the plush riverside.

Open air Riverside kitchen on Nam Song River bank.

                                   Entered the plush 4 star Avani hotel that has a beautiful view of the Nam Song river and equally highly priced room rates beginning at 120 US$/Night with breakfast.Visited the next few hotels with the cheapest being at U.S $ 25/Night for 2 people which included breakfast. Excellent for couples or if travelling in pairs.For "SOLO " travel hostels are the most convenient and cheapest.Walked across the bridge to the other side of the river where the "Cliff View Riverside Bungalows and Restaurant " had beach shacks along the riverside sand which was totally occupied by  South Korean and Japanese tourists. Returned back to the hostel and after the normal music and 2 pegs vodka by the poolside . Later walked to "Walking Street" road next to the hostel and dinner was "Barbecue Duck" with ice-cream. Had a decent nights sleep.

At the Mekong River Promenade in Vientiane.

"Bolo Backpacker hostel";- 70 year old Bungalow .

Sunday(12.1/2020) Departure Vang Vieng  and arrival Vientiane :- Was awake early as usual and after a bathe packed my luggage .Got dressed and walked the short distance to "Namfonh Cafe" for a coffee and omelette sandwich.Having stayed for a week at "Nana Backpackers hostel" made me feel i was leaving a home away from a home for i just didn't feel lonely or bored during my entire stay in this hostel.Never in my life did i continuously "PARTY" for a entire week akin to attending a night club daily in my home city of Mumbai .Now i understood  the heady glamour pool-side parties in Goa in India of  once India's most glamorous Industrialist  Mr Vijay.Mallya  as also a average Nightclub musician's lifestyle which is not easy work or glamorous on a daily basis.

Sihom Road :- Backpacker/Hotel locale in Vientiane.

                               .Relaxing by the hostel  pool  with 2 pegs of vodka and millennial music  akin to the "Narrator" in the F.Scott Fitzgerald's " The Great Gatsby" watched  the young  crowd  of mostly Caucasian tourists party the night away without inhibitions  upto 2300 hrs which was daily closing time.Memories of a lifetime.The mini van arrived at 0900 hrs and it was a sad good-bye to "Nana Backpackers hostel" as we drove on our way to Vientiane.The van was not packed to capacity and all the passengers were Caucasian tourists from Switzerland and Germany.We first stopped at Vang Vieng's main bus terminus where all passengers had to fill in a form before final departure to Vientiane.

Thanks Indian Expat Mr Sonairaja to find "Bolo hostel".

                                                                                                                                               It was a comfortable journey with slight bumps along the narrow main highway road.We had a short halt at "Pele's Restaurant" and finally at 1245 hrs reached Vientiane City.A vast difference in comparison to Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng with the city having broad roads and normal terraced buildings akin to any common city.No skyscrapers akin to my home city of Mumbai but mid-size buildings as seen in any city..Finding my way to "Bo Lo Backpackers hostel" was a nightmare and decades of travel experience and my own karma of distributing my travel knowledge free of cost  saved the day.Locals hardly speak  English with French being the next spoken language.

 "Night Market" on bank of Mekong river promenade.

                                                                            I was even guided in the wrong direction with my  "Sixth sense"  coming to my rescue realizing something was not right . Spotted a Asian walking towards me and approached him for help and he was like manna from heaven.Indian expatriate Mr Sonairaja from Tamil Nadu literally walked with me to the hostel which was a short distance from where i met him. I am a firm believer in the Hindu philosophy of  "KARMA" or "DESTINY" and akin to Yuri Geller or Houdini have got out of almost hopeless financial , mental as well as physical life threatening  wreckage's in my personal life.When i read "SUICIDES" in the news i still wonder that i am alive and thriving at my young age to be a bit modest. Ahoy !

Sunset on Mekong river:- Notice the dry river bed

                                                                                        On entering the beautiful Bungalow estate of "Bo Lo Backpackers" came across a black African seated in the garden veranda while the manager Mr Alin greeted me and after checking my bonafide document checked me into this bungalow hostel that resembled a private residence.My room- mate was a young Pakistani businessman Mr Ehsan  from Gujarat in Pakistan.He told me that we were just 3 occupants in the entire palatial Bungalow and it was akin to staying in a farmhouse within the heart of the city.From the daily night club style partying  in "Nana Backpackers hostel" in Vang Vieng the calm monastic location and silence of "Bo Lo Backpackers" in Vientiane was akin to living in a highly ultra luxury health resort.

Manicure/Pedicure saleswoman at Mekong Promenade.

                                                                           I don't do Yoga or meditation but observed my Pakistan room-mate almost always doing Namaaz. Again in this hostel i was the " Daddy Cool" among the 3 of us hostelites. Mick.Jagger and the "Rolling Stones" when is your next world  concert tour !Travel educates.Later in the evening walked towards the Mekong river promenade which was beautiful with  the night market being set up on the sidewalk of the main traffic road.Strolled the length of the promenade with the Vientiane Night market definitely bigger than in Luang Prabang or Vang Vieng. Examining the street food-stalls was amazed to see squid and other sea food like crabs, prawns and sea-shells being sold among a string of street eateries.

"Vientiane Night Market" street food.

                                                                             Remember that Laos is a landlocked country and hence sea food at a premium although fresh water river fish is common.Dinner was barbecue squid washed down with Beerlao and honestly i had eaten one of the best squid dishes in my life. I  am a hardcore fish carnivore back home in Mumbai with one of my daily routine jobs being "Fish Marketing".Beside's i am not a "PAID FOOD  WRITER" and hence have no bias in saying the the squid i ate on my first day in Vientiane was one of the best in my lifetime.Ahoy!Returning back to the hostel got confused and again decades of travel experience put me on the right track and back to "Bo Lo Backpackers ".Relaxed in the palatial Bungalow courtyard updating my travelogue as well as browsing the internet while sipping on the trademark "Beerlao".Later a Chinese guest entered  the hostel and he  was staying in a separate room.Got to know young  Ugandan Collins.Moses better , a aspiring entrepreneur who would be travelling to Delhi the next day. It's a small World even in Laos unknown to the average Indian tourist.

PALAIS PRESIDENTIEL (Presidential Palace in Vientiane).

"Ho Phra Keo" temple museum.

Monday(13/1/2020) Vientiane :-  Our room had accommodation for 8 people but just 3 of us living in this room ,akin to booking the entire room.This was a 4 bedroom bungalow with a large hall ,kitchen and only recently in the past one year converted into "Bo Lo Hostel" and hence being given a face-lift with new fittings, etc.I was the earliest to wake up and Mr Alin offered me local Laotian green tea which he claimed to be from some old Laotian trees. We conversed through the "Google Interpreter" and hence got to know that this bungalow was 70 years old and must have witnessed all the upheavals in Laotian society. .           

 Courtyard of "Ho Phra Keo" temple museum.

                                                         He told me that till recently the average Laotian lifespan was only 56 years but has seen improvement in recent times.My research told me that death due to Dengue fever was high in Vientiane and hence first time in my life travelled with a tube of "Odomos mosquito repellent".Didn't require to use the mosquito repellent in any of my hostels or travel through Laos with the present accommodation in "Bo Lo Backpackers" being akin to living in a private heritage bungalow.Weather was cool and pleasant with A/C switched on in the night .Beside's in "Bo Lo Backpackers" noticed special mosquito curtains fitted with magnet attachments that closed automatically once a person passed through the curtain.First World "Mosquito Repellent technology" in Laos.Travel educates.

SISAKET TEMPLE MUSEUM.

              The "Free" breakfast was omelette with 2 slices of bread and coffee. After breakfast decided to explore the city landmarks and on venturing into the street and inquiring the "Tuktuk" charges to "Thatlung Stupa" realized it was too exorbitant.Walked further down Sihom  road towards the main backpacker locale and entered the plush "Vientiane Garden Hotel" inquiring with the hotel manager of package group day tours which is common in Vietnam and Thailand.As a "Solo" traveller i always join these single day travel groups but to my dismay found out that the same was not available in Vientiane due to lack of group tourists.Inquired for  individual chauffeur driven  guide travel which amounted to over 4,00,000 Kip for just 4 hrs around the city which was definitely not worth the price. Ahoy !
 

Cloister wall of Buddha statues in Sisaket Temple complex.

                                                       .To my great relief the manager of this hotel  gave me a printed tourist guide map of the city and the gambler in me decided to risk riding around the city on a hired motorcycle with a "Mackenna's Gold" decipherable guide map.Thanking the hotel manager returned to the hostel and hired a motorcycle for the day at a cost of 50,000 Kip. Mr Alin gave me one of the oldest "Honda Dream-2" bike's   among the 3 two wheeler's on hire at his guesthouse and making it obvious  by inflating the tyres with a cycle hand pump.As a former "Horse language  reader"  immediately realized that this "Honda dream bike" was unused since a long time and hence the tyres a bit deflated.Ultimately in life and living the dividends of any venture or decision is proportional to the risk.Riding on the "Honda Wave" motorcycle in Vang Vieng gave me that little experience of riding on "Left Hand side" roads but here in Vientiane the traffic was very dense in comparison to Vang Vieng .

Patuxai(Gate of Triumph)..

                                                                                                  Rode out of the hostel hoping for the best and also  realizing that my motorcycle ride on the busy traffic streets of Vientiane would be the main adventure rather than the sightseeing. Thankfully the map had bold printed photo's of the main tourist sites and by just showing the same to locals  managed to find my way into "Ho Phra Keo"  museum temple situated on  Setthathirath road .Parked the motorcycle inside the museum complex which had a  entrance fee of 10,000 Kip  with  photography inside the main temple prohibited.The Ho Phra Keo temple was built in 1565 to house the Emerald Buddha and has been rebuilt several times.

Broad paved roads in Down town Vientiane.

                              The "Emerald Buddha" stayed inside the temple for over 200 years and in 1779 was transferred to Thailand after the capture of Vientiane  and destruction of the temple by the Siamese General Chayo Phraya Chakri .The "Emerald Buddha" now resides in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok and considered the Palladium of Thailand.A young couple were having their photo's filmed outside the Ho Phra Keo temple akin to a "Film Shoot" .On inquiring with the photographing personal was requested to take a photo along with the couple.A total stranger in a cameo role in a foreign country.Entered this former sacred temple which is now a museum with a small souvenir shop.

Pha Thatluang Stupa

                                              From the "Ho Phra Keo" temple on  Sethathirath road  walked into the "Sisaket Temple( Wat Si Saket)" complex situated on Lang Xang road  facing "Ho Phra Keo". Entrance fee to Sisaket temple was 10,000 Kip and photography inside the main temple prohibited. Wat Si Siaket (Sisaket) temple was built in 1818 in the Siamese style of Buddhist architecture and has a cloister wall of more than 2000 ceramic and silver Buddha statues.After viewing the temple next strolled outside the palatial "Presidential Palace" the official residence of the President of Laos situated next to "Ho Phra Keo" museum which is closed to the public.Viewed the well  manicured lawns and gardens through the large gate. 

At  Pha Thatluang Stupa complex.

                                                                                                                                    Next got onto my bike which was parked in Ho Phra Keo museum complex and rode down the straight broad road towards Patuxai. The Patuxai meaning " Victory Gate" is a war monument built between 1957 and 1968 dedicated to Laotian Freedom fighters who fought for Independence from France. .This locale of Vientiane city is a mini replica of Champs-Elysees in Paris but unlike the " Arc De  Triomphe in Paris " the Vientiane Arc is Laotian in design decorated with mythological creatures like the Kinnari which is half female and half bird. Walked along the majestic archway of the Patuxai viewing the carvings on the ceilings also coming across a group of Indian origin Gujarati tourists speaking in Gujarati language.The first large group of Indian origin tourists i had come across during my travel across Laos.Refreshed myself with some boiled groundnuts and sliced pineapple before riding further down the beautiful broad road towards Pha Thatluang Stupa .Finally arrived at the Stupa parking ground and on payment of 10,000 Kip entered the  Pha Thatluan Stupa complex with it's  World renowned gold covered  Stupa supposedly initially built in the 13th century and destroyed various times since then by foreign invasions .

Discovering Vientiane riding a scooter.

                                                                                                                         This Stupa has been  rebuilt  over the centuries  as recently as  the 1930's. and later again after World War -II. The architecture of this building has references to Laotian culture and identity and hence today a symbol of National identity of Laos.Only the pinnacle of the Stupa is covered in real gold while the rest of the Stupa is just painted in the colour of Gold. After strolling around the Stupa complex made my way to the exit and to my horror the motorcycle refused to start.When i was just about to give up it suddenly came to life and thanking my destiny rode straight down towards "Bo Lo Hostel".Stopped at the backpacker locale of Sihom road  for a local lunch of rice/Squid with Beerlao and after lunch the motorcycle just refused to start.Walked the short distance from the backpackers locale to "Bo Lo Hostel" and reprimanded manager Alik for giving me a totally junk bike  with providence and my own skill rescuing me from a very clumsy situation in a totally foreign country.Relaxed in the hostel and Alik gave me a new Korean built scooter for my day's hired day riding. 

A Fair on Banks of Mekong river .

                                                                                                                           In the afternoon a large group of backpackers checked into the hotel and suddenly from being a sanatorium style bungalow "Bo Lo Backpacker Hotel" was partly full.In the evening rode down the Mekong River road wanting to travel to the end of the promenade but couldn't do so as the road was atrocious for any 2-wheeler.In the night strolled around the "Night Market" which is definitely the main attraction of Vientiane. Came across a stray abandoned beautiful Bulldog mix breed dog feeding from the tourists  leftovers and felt sad  but also happy that this once abandoned pet somehow had adjusted to living a stray life on the streets of Vientiane.Dinner was fried squid with Beerlao. Walked back to the hostel akin to a local.Got my normal 4 hrs sleep in the cool comforts of the A/C surprised that all the warnings about mosquitoes and dengue was totally non-existent in Vientiane during the dry winter season.

SLEEPING BUDDHA STATUE IN BUDDHA PARK .Wikipedia:-  Buddha Park, also known as Xieng Khuan  is a sculpture park southeast from Vientiane, in a meadow by the Mekong River. Although it is not a temple (Wat), the park may be referred to as Wat Xieng Khuan  since it contains numerous religious images. The name Xieng Khuan means Spirit City.and  the park contains over 200 Hindu and Buddhist statues. The socialist government operates Buddha Park as a tourist attraction and public park..

Ong Tu Buddhist Temple in Vientiane.

Tuesday (14/1/2020) Vientiane :- After my normal early morning toilet routines it was breakfast as usual in the open air garden of this once palatial bungalow now converted into a hostel. 6 beds in my room was occupied.After breakfast decided to just walk around the city not risking a motorcycle or scooter ride in the heavily congested city traffic. As a gambler/speculator i always hedge my bets hence till today monetarily in existence without a 9-5 job. Ahoy ! Even a Doctorate in Economics would say that making a long term  living through the "STOCK MARKET" is the most difficult self-employed job in earning so called "EASY MONEY".

That Dam(Black Stupa)

                              Only qualifications required to be a million dollar or a 100 dollars Trader /Speculator or Investor on the "Stock Market"  is basic literacy , a laptop/Smart phone , Internet connection and a Internet bank online trading account with your workplace being your own home/office and  thus attesting the title  of a entrepreneur.Yes it's that easy but more easier to also get bankrupt as a "Share Market Entrepreneur".Which human being doesn't want to earn "EASY MONEY". Ahoy !  Walked down very familiar Sihom street  and inquired for directions to the "Central Bus Station" .Laos was on the "HIPPY TRAIL" during the early 1960's  with the capital Vientiane boasting of being the World's largest "OPIUM DEN" and Sihom street would have definitely been a major "Opium Adda ".  Ahoy ! The carpet bombing of Laos during the Vietnam( Secret War)destroyed tourism and along with it the opium dens .

Talat Sao( Morning Market) of Vientiane.

            After the start of the Vietnam War the "Hippy Trail" migrated  to Goa and this mass migration put Goa in India on the International tourist map. No wonder "Bo Lo Backpacker Hotel" manager, the suave handsome  Mr Alik always seemed  "Stoned" with a cigarette dangling from his aristocratic cigarette holder , a charm of the hallucinating 1960's much before he was born.Akin to me impersonating the "Narrator" from "The Great Gatsby" so also Mr Alik must have been impersonating Vientiane of the early 1960's.Came across beautiful Buddhist temples and i was surprised at the number of Buddhist  temples in Laos akin to Hindu temples in India.

Statues in Buddha Park in Vientiane.

                                                                                                                                                       In comparison to the population of Laos the number of Buddhist temples in city's of  Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and now the capital  Vientiane was unbelievable as also architectural beauty of these temples to the landscape.Buddhist temple buildings have the unique dragon design .Inquiring directions realized i was on the brink of breaking one of my own marathon city walking records of recent years most memorable being sight seeing Central London in 2010  .Came across the plush 5-Star  Lao Plaza hotel and entered the hotel to inquire the room tariff which was a princely U.S $ 130/Day/Person and definitely not a backpackers choice of residence.

Hindu & Buddhist Gods in Buddha Park

                                                                                        Walking further passed alongside the U.S.A consulate located in That Dam near the old city of Vientiane. "That Dam" means Black Stupa and is  is named after  a large Stupa  built in this vicinity and considered by many Laotians to be inhabited by a 7 headed Naga who tried to protect them from a Siamese invasion army in 1827. Asking directions with the security stationed outside the consulate who did speak English  managed to reach the main road and  surprised to see the landmark Patuxai  in the distance. Yesterday i had arrived to this location by a motorcycle while today i had walked the same distance,bizarre but  true..At the main road again asked for directions and was directed towards the "Talat Sao (Morning Market)" which has two sections. One is the large modern air conditioned Morning Market" shopping mall having 5 floors , a cinema and a arcade center while the older morning market is a large ground floor street walk-through roofed  market having various different shops .

In Buddha Park.

       Entered the large ground  floor street  market selling various goods and purchased a pair of sandals to replace the sandals i had forgotten on the shore of Nam Song river in Vang Vieng during the unforgettable "TUBING" adventure.After purchasing the sandals inquired for directions to the bus station and heaved a sigh of relief on finding it just outside the "Morning Market" on the opposite side of the road.My marathon walk was rewarded and got a "N0 14" bus right on arriving at the terminus. Boarded the plush excellently air-conditioned bus, having  a neatly well dressed conductor and  driver akin to "First World" country's. The conductor issued the ticket costing 8000 Kip and it was a very long 25 Kms pleasant journey towards "Xieng Khouan Buddha Park" .After leaving the city limits and entering the countryside for the first time  observed fresh rice paddy cultivation in some fields while almost all the field were i had seen during my travel across Laos were  dry after the harvest season.On the way the bus stopped at various stops  to pick up passengers and our first major stop was at the "Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge-1".

"SUNFLOWER" garden in Buddha Park.

                                                                                                                           This bridge that is 20 Kms from Vientiane city is 1.17 Kms in length over the Mekong river and connects the city of Nong Khai in Thailand to Vientiane Prefacture in Laos. After a short break at this stop the bus began its onward journey and finally we were driving along the highway with the Mekong river on one side which was a relaxing sight. Finally reached "Xieng Khouan Buddha Park" and after paying a entrance fee of 10,000 Kip made my way into the park.At the entrance there were hawkers selling various food stuff and for the first time tasted a roasted banana although banana's are a part of my living akin to drinking water.The banana costing 1 Kip  tasted excellent and then decided to purchase a packet of jack fruits costing 15000 Kip which was not as sweet as jack fruits back home in Mumbai.On entering the park was amazed at the sight of the statues of various sizes and different God's with a reclining Buddha being the largest statue.There are a total of over 200 religious statues with a 40 meter high reclining Buddha statue being the largest and most prominent in this park.

Entrance to"Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge-1".

                                                                                                              This park was built in 1958 by  monk Luang Pu Bunieua Sulilat who had studied both Buddhism and Hinduism and hence statues of both Buddhist and Hindu deities along with Demons and  animals from both faiths in this open air garden park.Outstanding statues besides the giant reclining Buddha are of Indra the King of the Hindu God's riding the three headed elephant,a four armed deity sitting on a horse and a deity with 12 faces and 12 hands holding interesting objects. The park has the Mekong river as one of its natural boundary and visited the beautiful garden bordering the Mekong river which had sunflowers and various other decorative plant species.   

Cultivated Rice paddy field in Vientiane suburbs.

                                                                                                                                      Climbed up a dangerously narrow ladder on one of the monuments erected for tourists which gave a "Bird's Eye View" of the entire garden.After a few photographs and video's returned back to the bus stop and was lucky to immediately get a " N0 14" bus to Vientiane.On alighting at Vientiane it was confusing taking the right road back to "Bo Lo Backpackers"  and in the process missed my way and accidentally discovered a new locale of the city. Lunch was Beerlao with sticky rice and barbecue pork at a small family run restaurant.Walking further came across "Nana Steel factory" reminding me of  the swinging pool-side partying at "Nana Backpackers" of Vang Vieng.

Lao Festive Decorations on sale.

                                                                                        Discovered a shoe shop selling  branded shoes like Adidas,Nike,Puma, Jordan etc which were all excellent artistic fakes.If sold in a prominent  shopping mall  in Mumbai or a "Duty Free" airport sports store i would have  purchased a pair  thinking i was purchasing the "Original McCoy" ! Wonder how branded footwear  companies  control fake replica's of their products across the Globe let alone Laos as i have seen the same in Barcelona and other First World European City's.According to me the counterfeit's i saw in Laos were the best and  could fool even a connoisseur of branded sports footwear.Ahoy !Akin to controlling "Fake Currency" most house-hold name branded companies face great losses in counterfeiting of their products .

Adventure travel on "N0 14 " local bus.

                            .Finally asking for directions by pointing at photo's on  my "Tourist map" did finally get my bearings right and walked back to the hostel.As usual had some rest on the laptop and later in the evening walked to the Mekong river promenade.Strolled around the "Night Market" and purchased a pair of track shoes,Bermuda shorts and a shirt with the left over local currency of Kips.Dinner was at the plush "Samyek Pakpasack restaurant" situated by the riverside.This restaurant does excellent business and my last dinner of the 15 day's travel odyssey was Beerlao  and "Smoked Saba fish" served with herbs and a lot of chilies. Average Laotian menu is extremely pungent with chilies being generously served along with the main menu.Something different from the normal street-side barbecue food.Reasonable at 47,000 Kip with excellent local music and a lively atmosphere in the restaurant. It also happened to be the "Orthodox New Year -2020".After dinner on my way to the hostel purchased 3 large prawns from the street sellers and back in the hostel garden it was the last Beerlao along with boiled prawns.A normal 3-4 hrs sleep as usual.

Inside the  the "THAI SMILE WE 571" in Vientiane  on my way to Bangkok.In Bangkok boarded the transit flight "THAI SMILE TG 317" to Mumbai.

End of beautiful  "COUNTRY STYLE LIVING" in Laos.

Wednesday(15/1/2020) Departure Vientiane and arrival Mumbai :- Yesterday was the "Orthodox Happy New Year - 2020" and strangely i arrived in Laos on New year-2020 and would  be departing from Laos on a day after "Orthodox New Year - 2020".True and strange. I didn't realize how time flew by in Laos totally engrossed in travel discovery and travelogue blogging. Internet WiFi was excellent  and definitely faster than Internet back home in Mumbai.Had my last breakfast in the pleasant quiet environment of the palatial "Bolo Backpacker hotel" bungalow garden.Very pleasant weather at 19*c to 23* c throughout the day and night.                     

From "Beerlao" to Lao Coconut water !

                       At night the A/C was switched on in all the 3 hostels that i had  resided in Laos and the "Mosquito Dengue Phobia" read during my travel research proved baseless and a horror fantasy during the dry season climate. Mosquito's did  exist in "Bolo Backpackers" bungalow estate but proper precautions had been taken by the hostel staff like excellent installation of "Anti-Mosquito magnetic Curtains", something i saw for the first time in my life  as also  using A/C at night .Backpackers kept on arriving and departing with Mr Ehsan from Pakistan now being the oldest guest having been in the hostel before my arrival.He was suffering from some digestive problems and hence under medication  and confined to the hostel reading,telephoning and doing  his normal 5 times a day Namaz(Islamic Prayers). Early in the morning a young German guest arrived with whom i had a conversation  and he intended  travelling across  India in the next few months.The hostel was  now totally full and in my presence a guest was refused accommodation due to non availability of accommodation  in the hostel.

Entrance to Wattey International Airport.

          How quickly a scenario can change within a few days akin to stocks on the stock market.When i arrived on Sunday( 12/1/2020) felt like a wealthy private visitor living in a plush farmhouse bungalow  with just 4 guests and today it was "House-Full".Remember to always book your accommodation in advance especially during peak tourist season. It's now peak tourist season in Laos and Europeans,Japanese  and the Koreans rush  to the cool warm weather of Laos to avoid the extreme ice freezing cold weather of Europe, Korea and Japan .Ahoy !After breakfast had a stroll on the main road and  a health drink of tender"Coconut Water" costing 10,000 Kip/Coconut. Extremely large coconuts in comparison to coconuts back home in my native India.                     

Inside Vientiane airport.

                                         Walked back to the hostel and told Hostel Caretaker /Manager Mr Alin  to book me a "Tuk-Tuk( 3-Wheeler taxi)" for going to the airport.On payment of 30,000 Kip he rang up his TukTuk driver and within a few minutes the "Tuk-Tuk" was at the entrance of the hostel and it was a final goodbye to "Bo Lo Backpacker Hotel" in Vientiane .It was a short 20 minutes drive to "Wattey International airport" of Vientiane, a military cum civil aviation airport having local as well as International arrival/departures in the same building .I was early as usual and whiled away my time in the "International departure lounge" which was a neat and clean small airport.A large religious Buddhist mural  was a prime attraction  in the lounge while a Christmas tree stood at a corner . Utilized my excess Kip currency in purchasing a chocolate and a wafer packet which was highly exorbitant in cost factor in comparison to my native India.On opening of the "Check-In Counter" got both  my ticket's  issued which was Vientiane to Bangkok and the connecting Bangkok to Mumbai flights.Security checks is why i hate air travel and at the security they confiscated my local rice whisky bottle purchased from "Whisky village " in Luang Prabang stating that it could only be carried in baggage luggage and not as hand luggage. Bizarre confiscation  since  they allow a traveler to carry liquor bottles purchased in the duty free shops as "hand luggage' . Elementary, Watson !                                           

Confiscated"WHISKY VILLAGE "bottle !

                                                             I had purchased this cheap whisky costing 30,000 Kip as a memento and after carting it all the way to Vientiane was emotional to lose the same and also happy that someone would enjoy a "Free Whisky" drink. Finally after  the security check made my way to "Gate 04" for boarding "Flight N0 WE 571" to Bangkok.."Free Airport WiFi" at Vientiane airport was pathetic and just couldn't while away my time browsing the Internet.Compare this to the  "First World" efficiency of the Internet in all the hostels that i had resided in Laos and always wonder the reasons for most country's having very poor Internet bandwidth at their airports .Boarding time was at 1245 hrs and was served a snack box of "prawns salad /bread  during the short one hour flight to Bangkok.On arrival at Bangkok airport  which is massive in size made my way towards the nearest information booth and inquired the bearings of "Flight TG317" to Mumbai .Was directed to the "C" wing of the departure terminal which was a long exercise walk within the airport. Bangkok security check is more strict  than Vientiane and i was worried of misplacing items while stripping my pockets ,etc  for security scrutiny. 

Vientiane to Mumbai on a "Thai Airbus" Plane.

                     Finally after the thorough security check made my way to the boarding gate where i had to spend a few hours just idling mentally as the airport "Free WiFi" was also pathetic akin to Vientiane in Laos.At 1815 hrs boarded the plane and was amazed  to find my "Seat 62G" situated in the centre row which has a total of 4 seat in a horizontal row  totally vacant .Hence the flight from Bangkok to Mumbai was sheer luxury akin to "First class" air travel barring the seating arrangements.How could a Bangkok to India flight not be "House-full" ? Stretched my aching legs and watched the in-flight Japanese movie "Journalist" .Dinner was Indian style "Paneer/Rice/Bread/Chicken fry" washed down with two Heineken beers. Ahoy ! Landed at Mumbai airport at 2140 hrs and after the formality of immigration walked into the duty free and purchased the same boring "Chivas Regal+ Chocolates" . Hired a ordinary paid taxi costing Rs 480 and was finally home in Prabhadevi.